RUNWAY: Alexander McQueen FW11

We think Sarah Burton was a wonderful choice to replace the late and great Alexander McQueen but her menswear has felt like it was sent down the runway unfinished. We're not talking about the deliberate unattached shoulder/arms of the jackets seen later in the collection. There is such potential in the collection but it felt like an episode of Project Runway, where the designers ran out of time to finish their garments perfectly, whether it was a seam or styling, so the garments seem haphazard but the idea was there. In contrast, Sarah Burton's womenswear line is effortless and pays homage to McQueen while still being independent of him and his aesthetic.

For menswear, though, Burton seems to have a hard time finding her footing. That being said, Alexander McQueen is in great hands and we hope that with a little more time to get accustomed and to hone in on her idea of who the Alexander McQueen man is, the house will flourish. A prime example is Kris Van Assche for Dior Homme. After the departure of Hedi Slimane, Van Assche took a few seasons to really hit his stride but once he did, Dior Homme soared and is selling very well, as well as being a editorial favorite. We hope that the something similar happens for Burton at McQueen.