Loewe's Jonathan Anderson took menswear to the runway for the first time since taking over at the LVMH-owned maison. The result continued the rule-breaking mantra that Anderson is known for his in eponymous collection. Here there were 80s inspired looks, complete with skinny sunglasses a la The Matrix, while leather garments looked desirable, as they should for Loewe. Standouts included the oversized caftans, in cashmere in particular, while some of the other oversized knits with ribbons and ties dangling looked far too heavily influenced by another young British designer.



RUNWAY: Loewe FW19

For his namesake collection, Jonathan Anderson ventured into the upside down with a collection that put tradition and convention and threw it out the window. While the runway style was topsy-turvy, bucking tradition is what Anderson is all about, he was was bending genders on the runway before it was de rigueur and so mismatching socks and shoes, oddly fashioned knit caps and more are just an evolution for the London-based label.



RUNWAY: JW Anderson FW19

The bourgeoisie are overtaken by the proletariat at Wooyoungmi's Fall/Winter 2019 collection and the result offered a anarchistic thread that ran throughout the collection. This was heightened by the presence of clashing plaid layers, leather, acid washed denim, chic suiting, woolen greatcoats and more.



RUNWAY: Wooyoungmi FW19

Hermès' Veronique Nichanian offered up stunning outerwear for Fall/Winter 2019 in shades of cobalt, sherbet and vermillion in supple leathers, some with fur trim and lining. As for ready to wear, the silhouette was looser but still flattering on the body - Hermès's subtle adherence to the oversized trend - while abstract geometric patterns broke up the color blocked looks. Like many of Hermès's collections, there is a strong color palette that's equally confident and quietly daring, whether it's a moss turtleneck, sherbet pants, or shiny chainmail-esque knit.



RUNWAY: Hermès FW19

Comme des Garcons (abbreviated to CdG here) Homme Plus offered a punk-inspired collection of mostly black layers and hard-edged accessories. However, even before designer Rei Kawakubo clarified what the collection was about, one could easily see the stunning tailored jackets and coats throughout the collection, mixed in with rougher pieces. One particular brocade jacket looked as sumptuous as something one might see from Tom Ford but mixed with the darker elements of the collection gave it a darker, subversive feel versus unabashed opulence. One finds that Kawakubo might be tapping into the childhood mantra of "don't judge a book by its cover" with this collection of surprisingly luxurious garments dressed up, or in this case, down, as something else.



RUNWAY: CdG Homme Plus FW19

Masculinity and tailoring were explored at Thom Browne's FW19 show today. As the lines blur between menswear and womenswear, more and more designers are trying to figure out how fashion plays into that. Since fashion and most art, tends to reflect or even predict the nearby cultural future, it is no surprise that dangerous designers such as Browne tackles it. There were dress forms that lined the runway, to bring home the idea that these were clothes in flux and still being worked out. What followed was a barrage of tailored garments with all manner of flux: stitched, sewed and glued together to create, oftentimes, confusing clothing - shirts on jackets, pants on shirts, half-coats and the like! For the tamer aspects of the collection, there were form fitting, dress-like layers, fur trimmed gaments and a good amount of accessories to whet the appetite of the bagoholics.



RUNWAY: Thom Browne FW19

Olivier Rousteing's latest outing for Balmain came in monochrome with most of the looks coming in only black or white...or to change to it up: black and white. The collection was actually quite multi-faceted. First, many of the looks could be worn by either men or women, it offered dressy options and more hard-edged ones, and it was exceedingly intricate, as is normally the case with Rousteing's Balmain offerings. The beginning of the collection, however, looked like the young French designer was applying for the top job at Chanel, with fringey tweeds and chunky houndstooth while the latter half offered BSDM-harnessed models with iPhones that recorded one's viewpoint. The leather trenches, jackets and bombers in the final few looks were quite exemplary.



RUNWAY: Balmain FW19

Shortly after Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled a collaboration with Undercover for Valentino's FW19 collection, Undercover debuted a collaboration with Valentino! It was quite nice that there was reciprocity between the two collaborations and it was not one-sided like so many collaborations are. The Valentino Undercover garments were in the final parts of a collection that saw the main line traverse through the world of Stanley Kubrick's A Clockwork Orange. All the while, there ran an equally sinister vibe throughout the collection with masked men in Undercover's signature street-style friendly aesthetic while prints of flying saucers and Beethoven became the connective thread that stitched the Valentino and Undercover Fall/Winter 2019 collections together.



RUNWAY: Undercover FW19

Remember when Rick Owens using blue was a monumental moment? Well, thing have certainly changed and it was palpable in this colorful collection from Owens. The collection was also much more rock-infused than his prior outings though still quite high concept, like those platforms sneakers! It's hard to not let the color palette at an Owens collection go without mention and so the deep oranges, reds and browns that paraded down the runway had a strong effect while the multitude of shades of black and white offered something familiar. In all, it was an evolutionary step forward for Owens and considering many of his past offerings have dipped heavily in the dystopian, it was a welcome change.



RUNWAY: Rick Owens FW19