There is so much to unpack with Kim Jones' debut at Dior, one of three designer debuts during this season at Paris Fashion Week and all three from LVMH. First was Virgil Abloh's debut at Louis Vuitton, then this debut from Jones for Dior Men - more on that later and before PFW is over, Dior Homme's former director, Kris Van Assche, will debut at Berluti.

Name changes in fashion are often met with huge blowback, remember the Saint Laurent change under Hedi Slimane? Here, Jones chose to subtly change Dior Homme to Dior Men. It was barely a recognizable change, one that many will simply ignore since it wasn't a directive change. But it's a big one nonetheless.

Then there was the clothing itself: surprisingly light and airy with floral notes and touches of Monsieur Dior's archives, which Jones did a deep dive on upon arriving at HQ and willfully ignoring Hedi Slimane's Dior Homme archives. The opening look, worn by Prince Nikolai of Denmark, set the tone via a blue and white suit, sporty in its cut but offering enough sartorial elegance to pique the appeal of wealthy men, maybe those with royal blood. Elsewhere, the collection's collaboration with KAWS manifested itself in accessories sure to cause Dior's parent, LVMH, to see plenty of dollar signs. There were also sexy layers of florals under transparent outerwear, something we've seen plenty of this season from Prada to Louis Vuitton. In all, the collection was a huge success and its front row of well wishers, friends and industry titans, including the ever-present Dior (Homme) client Karl Lagerfeld, seems to indicate that Kim Jones is likely the most beloved menswear designer.

RUNWAY: Dior Men SS19

Warsaw-based label MISBHV is proudly Polish and its runway collection shows off that pride offers it on club-centric clothing, some sparkly to reflect light or sexual in nature to show off some skin. It's an interesting posit from a relatively new label based in a country that's not quite known for its fashion.


Everyone has a laundry list of things to do everyday and Mihara Yasuhiro's includes appliquéing patches and other pieces of clothing on to his garments. This was the starting point at his SS19 collection which offered intriguing new combinations to create youthful and urbane looks.

RUNWAY: Maison Mihara Yasuhiro SS19

South Korean designer Juun J.'s play on proportions has not ebbed and it has transformed, to a point, to a play on surrealism with extra arm holes or sleeves added on to already elongated silhouettes. While outerwear seemed to be the focus, such as trench coats but windbreakers in particular, it was the shirts that drew this reviewer's attention, showing how one could style these crazy long shirts. Sure, making it a shirt dress for your wife or girlfriend is simple but being able to tie it around one's hips to create a boho-chic look is a tougher feat for men. All that being said, the designer - after years of praise - seem to be resting on his laurels with collections that aren't quite identical but have far too much in common.


Suburbia gets the Thom Browne treatment for the American designer's SS19 collection. Browne also took the oversized trend that's overtaken the fashion industry and supersized the proportions of his tailored clothing - take that Demna! For those don't want to look like they're wearing a suit made for Lurch or Hermann Munster, there were more palatable proportions, mostly with sea-themed patterns such as crabs or whales.

RUNWAY: Thom Browne SS19

Japanese fabrics are some of the most technologically advanced and some of the most coveted and so it's no surprise that Cerruti's 1881 collection utilized these fabrics in its SS19 collection. The Japanese textile industry influenced the collection as well, evidenced by the slouchy, wider cuts on the tailored pieces, offering more movement and freedom for the wearer without sacrificing the codes of the house, which is often a delicate balance. Meanwhile, shorts in slinky fabrics with matching jackets offered a laid back approach to weekend dressing.

RUNWAY: Cerruti 1881 SS19

"Crazy suits", the title of this collection, is right. Rei Kawakubo's latest collection took on tailoring - a topic that's been all over the place this season, whether it's heritage labels such as Corneliani trying to navigate a world where hoodies are more favored than suits in the business world or Raf Simons who has said enough with the sportswear. Here, Kawakubo takes a different approach for her Comme des Garcons Homme Plus collection: she plays with the suit to make them youthful and fun, taking the seriousness of what they mean away and imbuing them with frivolity via bold colors, snazzy patterns and out-there shapes.

RUNWAY: Comme des Garçons SS19

Long time readers might be aware that we've not always been the biggest fans of Sarah Burton's McQueen, especially at the beginning. That being said, Burton's last few collections for Alexander McQueen have been knockouts, they've been the perfect blend of stunning tailoring, macabre allure, and beauty, hitting notes on the brand's heritage but adding her own individualism to it. This SS19 collection is yet another winning one that blends sartorial excellence with raw beauty and a sinister-like allure. Briefly speaking of raw, the strands of metallic fabric that started on a coat and draped across the body to dangle as the model walked was so fabulous and simple a thought. There were also the elegantly and opulently embroidered coats - who cares if they're too heavy for a "warm" English day? - or the tight moto jackets and the austere and tailored suiting? Magnificent.

RUNWAY: Alexander McQueen SS19

Ann Demeulemeester is known for its dark romantic clothing and for SS19 the label offered a darker twist: mourners. Though the label doesn't seem to be romanticizing mourning or death, for that matter, the label's aesthetic lends itself to the act of it and with veiled men (and some women) walking down the cream runway clutching black roses, the idea came into focus. The result was not anything new, per se, but more a progression of a viewpoint that has transcended the namesake designer's tenure.

RUNWAY: Ann Demeulemeester SS19