Dolce&Gabbana offered a handful of men's looks on its SS19 women's runway show as accompaniment and to bring home the idea of family, the ethos the Italian design duo have pushed for the past few seasons. And why not? Because family is clearly just an Italian construct.



RUNWAY: Dolce&Gabbana SS19

Set in an old theatre atop Montmartre in Paris, Alessandro Michele's latest collection for Gucci had a sense of depravity, maybe from the ill-fitting Gucci-fied briefs or the leather jockstrap affixed over the opening men's look. Regardless, it was like these clothes had the hauntings of the same sort of 70s wild nightlife that this theatre saw when Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent and more used to frequent it in that decade. There were the requisite pattern-heavy, gender-fluid designs while the iconic Gucci motif appeared in various tones on a flared suit, almost in defiant protest that seems to be gaining momentum in menswear: no more labeling. Who'll win that fight is yet to be seen but Michele, as always, puts up a strong case for why his signature branding.



RUNWAY: Gucci SS19

A new design team at Salvatore Ferragamo, with men's headed by Guillaume Meilland, offered a different take on the Ferragamo aesthetic. Since going public, the Ferragamo house has undergone lots of change, thanks in part to its infusion of principal from the stock offering but also from the change in aesthetics due to the design team turnover. Here, Meilland makes his debut with ultra wide proportions, utilizing the house's signature leathers on pants, outerwear and, of course, footwear. The collection trended more in the beige-scale while a flora printed shirt broke up the monochromatic looks. It was a decent effort with sellable items, save for the odd leather overalls.



RUNWAY: Salvatore Ferragamo SS19

Philipp Plein's high gloss collection are rarely considered high concept collections but they appeal to the millennial, do-it-for-the-'gram crowd, as evidenced here and with virtually every one of his collections.



RUNWAY: Philipp Plein SS19

Ermanno Scervino's eponymous collection offered a handful of men's looks during his SS19 runway show. The few men's looks included glistening knits, fitted trousers hitting just above the ankle and a strong sense of Italian masculinity, almost predictably so.



RUNWAY: Ermanno Scervino SS19

Giorgio Armani rackets up the sex appeal in his SS19 collection for Emporio Armani, featuring soft jackets without a shirt or tee underneath, zip-up shirts exposing one's abs, and even a glitzy evening look of short shorts with a signature Armani jacket. While the incremental changes at Armani are slow, little touches such as these make a seismic impact.



RUNWAY: Emporio Armani SS19

Tod's offered pared back luxury for its SS19 menswear offerings. The label doubled down on its animal-hide offerings with suede safari jackets and of course its famous loafers.



RUNWAY: Tod's SS19

Moncler taps Fragment's Hiroshi Fujiwara to create a sporty and youthful SS19 collection as part of its second season of individual designer collaborations. There is a strong retro vibe in the cuts and pattern use but made modern with denim, plasticized fabrics and more



RUNWAY: Moncler x Fragment SS19

Since the Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge collaborations are kaput, Moncler's new strategy to give several different designers free reign on a collaboration is an interesting one. Craig Green's iteration starts off monochromatic with his signature dramatic showpieces but turns into a kaleidoscope of colors and geometric patterns, of which are infinitely stronger than the monochromatic looks.



RUNWAY: Moncler x Craig Green SS19