What has been percolating in the underbelly of the menswear industry was thrown in front and center at Raf Simons: a rebuke of sporty, athletic and an embrace of elegant tailoring. Though the proliferation of casual sportswear has yet to peak within the general public; high fashion, or at least its most influential voice, is saying "enough". Simons also returns to Paris Fashion Week, a late decision that caused him to not be on the official schedule, and with this return sees him coming back to his roots as well: New Wave, with a series of printed photographs from a concert in Stockholm with none other than The Clash. These are actual photographs from that concert in 1977 and they added a nice juxtaposition to the beautifully crafted, boxy jackets and coats, nearly all made in Duchess satin, a fabric so high end that it almost never appears in menswear and is mostly only seen in haute couture collections because of the level of craftsmanship to cut and form is so high. And so, that's what men's most influential designer proffered for SS19: tailored clothes with a hint of rebellion via fond memories.



RUNWAY: Raf Simons SS19

Fashion's fascination with the occult, such as horoscopes and the latest du jour obsession: stones, manifested itself at Acne Studios's latest collection, evidenced by the stone structures the lined the runway with a strong boho-chic spirit ran throughout the pared back clothes. There were elongated proportions seen on knits while the number of seemingly off-season garments proliferated throughout from coats to heavy knits. Maybe these models were following their horoscopes too literally when they read of a strong storm coming their way.



RUNWAY: Acne Studios SS19

Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck takes on whether the clothes make the man or the man makes the clothes with a series of skeletal-like cut outs on clothes or bodysuits with skeletal print. Then the idea goes towards does this make the wearer look like an ass...err, donkey? Deciphering Van Beirendonck's thought process is quite hard and almost a futile exercise in putting into words the workings of a genius but yet, here we are trying...



RUNWAY: Walter Van Beirendonck SS19

Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli took branding and logos to a new level today at the Parisian label's Spring/Summer 2019 runway show. There was nary a garment without some form of Valentino branding, from the iconic circular 'V' logo to the name itself showing up as pattern (from checkerboard to argyle to chevron). This combined with a strong cast of people of color wearing these inspired-from-the-streets looks of baggy tracksuits, oversized bombers and gender-neutral garments. Though Valentino is one of the most venerable and highly regarded high fashion labels in the world, this urban and street-friendly effort from Piccioli felt authentic and that might have to do with the aforementioned cast, who seem like the type of men and women who would actually wear these clothes could they afford it. And that, friends, is the rub of high fashion.



RUNWAY: Valentino SS19

Japanese label Facetasm's eccentric SS19 collection saw a jumble of fringe, tromp-o'leil layers, and free spirited style that coincides with the label's ethos.



RUNWAY: Facetasm SS19

GmbH's latest collection was transformative and authentic in the way it tackled heavy topics such as the immigrant experience during a time of such divisive politics. This manifested itself in a mishmash of colors, fabrics, and cuts - from vivid reds to earthy tones to patent leather to cotton and from taut to oversized - which all coincided with the label's true mantra this season: survival.



RUNWAY: GmbH SS19

D'oh! Virgil Abloh has had a busy last few weeks. Not only has he been preparing the debut of this SS19 collection, which was in honor of Dondi White, the famed graffiti artist, but also he's been named the new men's style director at Louis Vuitton. What the Ghanian-American designer has in store for Vuitton is to be seen (on Thursday) but for now, we see that the SS19 for Off-White was a mashup of cultural references from Bart Simpson to the aforementioned Dondi White. There were cool tees with prints of the famed cartoon character while an oversized trench in a rainbow of colors look like the aftermath of a session from Mr. White while graffitied jeans also made the references There was also a lot of denim to be seen from denim jackets with asymmetrical closures to boxy cut jeans, sans shirts.



RUNWAY: Off-White SS19

Alessandro Dell'Aqua's latest collection hit on one of Milan's stronger themes, which seems to be a reaction to the hypermasculine men we've seen the past few years. This is in reference to a stronger female essence within the new men's collections; at No.21, this was seen in the haphazardly styled shirts worn wind-swept, exposing a shoulder or the inner chest. Meanwhile, PVC made an appearance in a stunning translucent trench but also in a pair of short-shorts worn over white shorts. In all, the quirky designs - take the one shouldered knit - mixed well with the off-kilter tailored pieces and made for an enjoyable collection that said something a little different.



RUNWAY: No.21 SS19

Giorgio Armani looked back at his archives some 30 years to reissue an old logo from the 1980s and with that came softly tailored designs that were almost reminiscent of that era but with shoulders more taut, pants wide and fluid and cutting off just before the ankle for the most part. This latter design choice is more keeping with the times rather than referencing the past. As Armani edges closer to his eventual retirement (it has to happen at some point, non?) his self referential collections shows the elegance of his designs and the almost timelessness of it, with soft abstract patterned knits or Japanese-inspired tailoring.



RUNWAY: Giorgio Armani SS19