Buying a bespoke suit is akin to purchasing a couture gown. There was numerous fittings and measurements to be taken. For FW17, Thom Browne offers a cynical view of the bespoke suit experience by showing a series of ill-fitting suits with bad proportions and fit. Though for the man who has to laboriously get fitted at multiple intervals and get fitted (and re-fitted) for their suit, the majority of the world likely will play the world's tiniest violin for his struggle. That's what Browne, in essence, did here and the myriad iterations of his classic gray suits was the foundation of this collection.
It was back to the wilderness for Y-3 this coming Fall/Winter 2017 season. The latest collection offered a sea of black-on-black clothes, full of layers and accessories. However, the highlight of the collection were the mossy green clothes that brought the idea of the outdoors inside. Destroyed and hole-y knits evoked an off-the-grid vibe while the oversized coats are sure to get one through cold winters in the forest.
Julien David's FW17 collection offered boyish clothes that had an adventurous spirit, with most looks paired with chunky hiking boots. The mountaineering theme was also seen on harnesses on the jackets while foliage patterns rounded out the outdoorsy collection.
White Mountaineering's name says it all. This label is about utility and functionality and this was in focus at the FW17 show that showed a host of monochromatic looks of oversized outerwear and rugged sportswear for the adventurous type, with dashes of luxe coming from fur layers.
As has been tradition, the Comme des Garcon Shirt show during Paris Fashion Week offered two collections the Shirt label and its sub-label Boys. The former showed shirts with faces, like a reflection of the wearer while the latter offered cool and youthful knits and a single oversized toggle coat.
The bright palette on Ami's FW17 collection was a much needed jolt of energy especially considering the sea of black, blue and grey clothes that are typically seen for fall and winter collections. As for the clothes themselves, they were classically cut. After years of slim and skinny silhouettes and fashion's new obsession with oversized, Ami offered something radical: regular fits. Sure, the jeans were slightly long and folded to show bare ankles but for the most part, the clothes fit could easily be categorized as the Goldilocks option: not too hot (or big) and not too cold (or skinny), just right.
Officine Generale's steely resolve shined through in its FW17 collection. The label's sharp tailoring and pared back aesthetic has not wavered in the face of oversized-everthing. Rather than aiming to be too trendy and of-the-moment and departing from one's lane, this label offered customers supremely chic separates in solid, complimentary colors and well tailored coats and pants. Like Aesop's fable of the hare and tortoise mused, slow and steady wins the race and Officine Generale's effortless and timeless collection will stand the test of time against a plethora of trendy clothes that will likely no longer be in by the time it hits the shelves.
Has Lanvin's Lucas Ossendrijver become a nihilist? The opening look's scarf bolding saying "Nothing" and a shirt on the left breast saying "There Is Nothing" may indicate so. However, Ossendrijver was referring to this collection's lack of accoutrements and labels. He created a collection that was simple and to the point: good clothes. The coats were great with small touches, like voluminous sleeves creating rounded silhouettes or a high belt on a trench. Some things, invariably, did not work as well, like dégradé pants which were cropped and loose, making the model wearing it, likely about 6 feet tall look like a half a foot or so shorter; heavens to think what mere mortals wearing them would look like. However, in all, the designer's take on reworked classics had enough subtlety to make the clothes covetable and sellable once these high priced items head to the stores.
Olivier Rousteing's latest outing for Balmain offered an incredibly expansive collection of heavily embellished designs with high-end skins like crocodile making cameos throughout. The menswear here had dramatic proportions and offered layered looks that must have weighed more than many of the models. The price tags of these pieces will undoubtedly end up in the tens of thousands while the most exclusive, like the aforementioned crocodile skins, into the 6-figures. Rousteing and Balmain have legions of fans clamoring for a piece of the action, evidenced by the rabid consumption of Balmain's collaboration with H&M a few years ago, and this collection will further that desire but with these sky-high prices, who among the millions of followers can actually afford any of it? This menswear collection is Rousteing's largest and grandest, the workmanship exceled but a lack of editing was abundantly clear, even for maximalists, this was a bit much.