Minimal to its core, Acne Studios offered up small changes to its core collection with patterned leggings, fringed sleeves and criss-cross cutout bottoms. But the bulk of the collection followed the same aesthetic and logic of many Scandinavian brands of minimal, functional and quiet.

RUNWAY: Acne Studios SS20

Though they weren't the bug-eyed, green-skin type, Walter Van Beirendonck's aliens were angular creatures with more than four arms, spotted and patterned. The avant-garde Belgian designer imagined what his fantasy aliens would look and dress like (oddly Bowie-esque). The result was a colorful, light-hearted and, at times, thoughtful in its useful of plastics as an allegory for pollution and waste.

RUNWAY: Walter Van Beirendonck SS20

It might be a big confusing to see all the layers upon layers of clothing that OAMC put on the runway at its SS20 show. But these beguiling layers were light and airy with some autumnal patterns thrown in for good measure.


Dust off your tailored suits because Undercover says they're back in fashion. Or leave those cobwebs on your suits, Undercover embossed their suits with the pattern, which heightened the creepy and scary images that were emblazoned those mostly-black clothes. Tailoring was especially strong, with austere silhouettes which belied the images from horror movies from decades past from Dracula to Mr. Hyde.

RUNWAY: Undercover SS20

Climate change is on the mind of many - just ask the thousands of school-aged kids who walked out of their schools around the world a few weeks ago to protest the lack of action to curb, slow or stop climate change. It is also on the mind of Mihara Yasuhiro, evidenced here by his Spring/Summer 2020 collection rooted in a morose take on dressing - with references to hazmat suits, construction workers and overpopulation (how many faces can one fit into a pair of trousers?).

RUNWAY: Maison Mihara Yasuhiro SS20

Starting off with a mostly-all-black opening looks, White Mountaineering layered upon those black layers vibrant animalia prints, flora, and more to create an outdoorsy collection of utilitarian clothes with some serious style. Take those subtle leopard print outerwear: loose and flowing, making them all the better to move in, while also creating a great dramatic effect as one hikes or runs or runs errands. That's the thing about utility, it's for all occasions and while ahtleisure was all the rage a few seasons ago, the tried and true labels like White Mountaineering forge forward with their vision of melding fashion and utility harmoniously.

RUNWAY: White Mountaineering SS20

Sacai's latest collection was about tying together a collection of disparate influences together - or in some cases, un-tying them, like those bowties that were left hanging around the models necks. There were references to the tropics a la palm tree'd shirts to The Big Lebowski. In-between, there were new take son tailoring and the bucket hat, which got an update via an elongated side that turned it into a semi-wide-brimmed hat like one might see on the beach.

RUNWAY: Sacai SS20

Deconstructing the stand blue business shirt is the mantra of Comme des Garcons Shirt and for its SS20 collection, the label offered artsy takes on that requisite part of any man's wardrobe with colorful geometric shapes and even fake-leather jerkins like one might see at a medieval joust. Just par for the course for Comme des Garcons.

RUNWAY: Comme des Garçons Shirt SS20

Tunics and caftans littered Jonathan Anderson's latest collection for LVMH-owned Loewe to great effect. The bohemian-chic aesthetic felt especially new with these laid back, beach-ready layers in (sometimes) sun-bleached hues or cool pastels in pink or blue. In all, a strong effort from Anderson.

RUNWAY: Loewe SS20