Everyone has a laundry list of things to do everyday and Mihara Yasuhiro's includes appliquéing patches and other pieces of clothing on to his garments. This was the starting point at his SS19 collection which offered intriguing new combinations to create youthful and urbane looks.

RUNWAY: Maison Mihara Yasuhiro SS19

South Korean designer Juun J.'s play on proportions has not ebbed and it has transformed, to a point, to a play on surrealism with extra arm holes or sleeves added on to already elongated silhouettes. While outerwear seemed to be the focus, such as trench coats but windbreakers in particular, it was the shirts that drew this reviewer's attention, showing how one could style these crazy long shirts. Sure, making it a shirt dress for your wife or girlfriend is simple but being able to tie it around one's hips to create a boho-chic look is a tougher feat for men. All that being said, the designer - after years of praise - seem to be resting on his laurels with collections that aren't quite identical but have far too much in common.


Suburbia gets the Thom Browne treatment for the American designer's SS19 collection. Browne also took the oversized trend that's overtaken the fashion industry and supersized the proportions of his tailored clothing - take that Demna! For those don't want to look like they're wearing a suit made for Lurch or Hermann Munster, there were more palatable proportions, mostly with sea-themed patterns such as crabs or whales.

RUNWAY: Thom Browne SS19

Japanese fabrics are some of the most technologically advanced and some of the most coveted and so it's no surprise that Cerruti's 1881 collection utilized these fabrics in its SS19 collection. The Japanese textile industry influenced the collection as well, evidenced by the slouchy, wider cuts on the tailored pieces, offering more movement and freedom for the wearer without sacrificing the codes of the house, which is often a delicate balance. Meanwhile, shorts in slinky fabrics with matching jackets offered a laid back approach to weekend dressing.

RUNWAY: Cerruti 1881 SS19

"Crazy suits", the title of this collection, is right. Rei Kawakubo's latest collection took on tailoring - a topic that's been all over the place this season, whether it's heritage labels such as Corneliani trying to navigate a world where hoodies are more favored than suits in the business world or Raf Simons who has said enough with the sportswear. Here, Kawakubo takes a different approach for her Comme des Garcons Homme Plus collection: she plays with the suit to make them youthful and fun, taking the seriousness of what they mean away and imbuing them with frivolity via bold colors, snazzy patterns and out-there shapes.

RUNWAY: Comme des Garçons SS19

Long time readers might be aware that we've not always been the biggest fans of Sarah Burton's McQueen, especially at the beginning. That being said, Burton's last few collections for Alexander McQueen have been knockouts, they've been the perfect blend of stunning tailoring, macabre allure, and beauty, hitting notes on the brand's heritage but adding her own individualism to it. This SS19 collection is yet another winning one that blends sartorial excellence with raw beauty and a sinister-like allure. Briefly speaking of raw, the strands of metallic fabric that started on a coat and draped across the body to dangle as the model walked was so fabulous and simple a thought. There were also the elegantly and opulently embroidered coats - who cares if they're too heavy for a "warm" English day? - or the tight moto jackets and the austere and tailored suiting? Magnificent.

RUNWAY: Alexander McQueen SS19

Ann Demeulemeester is known for its dark romantic clothing and for SS19 the label offered a darker twist: mourners. Though the label doesn't seem to be romanticizing mourning or death, for that matter, the label's aesthetic lends itself to the act of it and with veiled men (and some women) walking down the cream runway clutching black roses, the idea came into focus. The result was not anything new, per se, but more a progression of a viewpoint that has transcended the namesake designer's tenure.

RUNWAY: Ann Demeulemeester SS19

John Galliano has dabbled in menswear since he started at Maison Margiela but this is his first full menswear effort since being ousted from his namesake label. This is also a fully Artisanal collection, which means that all the pieces are couture-level in execution and fabrics - this also means these runway looks can and will be fully customizable for individuals with the cash flow. As an aside, there is a ready to wear collection that is available for buyers and editors to see, it is a more wearable and less experimental collection and will also be shown during women's fashion week in September.

Back to the Artisanal collection: Galliano sees the convergence of men's and women's clothing and so the influence of the feminine here is strong while still keeping the masculine silhouette in focus. Some might see the shapes as too extreme for men to wear and to that argument, that's the point. Haute couture has always been a launching pad for grand ideas that trickles down to pret-a-porter and Galliano is a classically trained couturier. That being said, this collection's big ideas are: genderless designs, opulent embroidery and garments that look tight and constricting but because of the elegant fabrics and handcrafted design, they are light as air, as if one is wearing nothing at all. There is also a big focus here on bias cuts to accentuate the body in flattering and, for men, new-ish ways. In all, the collection was a big comeback for the British designer, showcasing that he still has big ideas to show the world and the ability to execute them.

RUNWAY: Maison Margiela Artisanal SS19

Utility is the buzzword at Heron Preston. There continues to be a strong thread of utilitarianism in these inspired-by-real-people garments which are elevated with striking prints, like the almost-camo print seen on a pair of pants or shorts. It's actually satellite imagery so in one respect, it is camo-like but in another, it's a real and tangible rather than a pattern made in a factory or digitally. Therein lies the crux of fashion, creating something we already know and elevating it in new and interesting ways with details not readily available.

RUNWAY: Heron Preston SS19