When one thinks of sport utility, images of rugged automobiles tend to be what people picture but at Vien, sport utility is a way of dressing, whether it be in a drab-olive one piece or a multi-bagged look with clashing strips. These were looks that offered movement with their roomy, sometimes boxy, sometimes bulbous silhouettes and gave the collection a decidedly young vibe.


For Spring 2019, Ovadia & Sons offered a surfs up lifestyle of easy and colorful pieces that aimed for utility without losing the label's reputation for cool, rock-infused details. This presented itself in the pattern-ful jackets, statement trainers, and slouchy tracksuits that are all the rage.

RUNWAY: Ovadia & Sons SS19

Simple but well made designs for both sexes are display at Hecho's SS19 presentation, featuring elegant caftans, boxy linen layers in pajama-style and elongated slips that exuded a chic Northern African vibe.

RUNWAY: Hecho SS19

Emily Bode's Spring/Summer 2019 collection was East meets West with influences from subcontinental India in strong focus and juxtaposed with Western sensibilities in the cut of the clothing. The stunning patterns seen on the clothes felt authentic and unique to Bode while a 1950s tailoring aesthetic pervaded the collection. For those fashion-lovers who need a bit of branding, there was some here as well but it felt like an afterthought, one that did not help or advance the brilliant fabrics, patterns and view point of the designer.


Patterns made up a big chunk of Thaddeus O'Neil's Spring/Summer 2019 collection, as did water - whether it was the pool or beach. The roomier cuts of shirts, tees and the boxier cut of the trousers evoked a laid back vibe, lounging by the pool or looking suave at the beach, while the aforementioned patterns, from animalia to abstract, meant that while the wearer wanted an easy, it does not mean blending in.

RUNWAY: Thaddeus O'Neil SS19

Robert Geller offered a sporty and athletic collection for his not-a-diffusion-line line Gustav Van Aschenbach featuring plenty of branding, shortened to GVA (thankfully), and presenting a laid back collection of easy layers that one could throw on and do what busy city men need to do, from work to working out to hanging with friends. In just twenty easy looks, Geller posited a strong collection that ticked the marks of what many in the industry see men wanting and offered his own iteration.

RUNWAY: Gustav Von Aschenbach SS19

Spain's Alejandro Gomez Palomo is provocateur who aims to upend the societal norms by dressing men in dresses and elaborate, and often, flamboyant outfits. For SS19, he is inspired by Wunderkrammer, the cabinet of curiosities, which could easily be utilized to describe his merry band of individuals in their luscious tweeds, see-through blouses and extravagant accessries including bedazzled buckles and statement necklaces.

RUNWAY: Palomo Spain SS19

German mega-label Hugo Boss traveled to Florence to showcase its sporty label, Hugo. The result melded some big trends in fashion such as athleisure with branding and fluidity, both in the cuts but also gender. On that last point, many of the pieces could easily be worn by either sex while athletic-minded pieces like the cycling shirts, gym bags and patterned garments all evoked a street-friendly aesthetic, one that could be layered or easily removed and replaced quickly to keep up with the wearer's busy life.


For Spring/Summer 2019, OAMC offered a laid back collection that focused on texture and fluidity via metallic fabrics, scrunched and folded to create almost bulbous proportions while transparent layers added dimension. The tailoring was also of note with contradicting but complementary cuts, taut on top, looser on the bottom or vice versa; it looked youthful and fresh, as did the light color palette in shades of white and black.