As glacial a pace as menswear travels, Kim Jones offered up a new and interesting way to push the menswear narrative forward. Tailoring is still at the center of Dior Men under the South African designer and he continued the stunning satin sashes he showed during FW19 into this season with new and interesting ways, as a built in sash on a suit or flowing and trailing behind the wearer with an ombre effect. The effect was quite lovely: elegant with equal masculinity and femininity, which, in effect, offered a new take on the unisex or genderless trend that's been toyed with a lot in fashion. Whether that was intentional or not doesn't matter, what does matter is that the net effect of those tailored looks are defining, something many designers are failing to do. What was less effective in this collection, though, were the throwbacks - as the youths say - to John Galliano's time at Dior with the newspaper prints that made cameos in this collection. While it's been quite some time since Galliano's anti-Semitic and Hitler-loving rant, it still seems too soon to be admiring his work.

Giorgio Armani's eponymous collection drew heavily on his signature style of deconstructed tailoring, Asian influences and an unassuming, laid back kind of luxury. All of that was seen and then some in this expansive collection full of lightweight layers with dashes of luxury like a cropped exotic-skin jacket or the velvet accented loafers. In all, it was exactly as you'd expect - love it or hate it.

Sunnei's very lovely Spring/Summer 2020 collection was highlighted by its simple color palette in clean and crisp hues from white to denim to yellow. While most people will focus on the "I HATE 'FASHION'" tee that everyone and their grandmother has already seen, it shouldn't overshadow the deceptively simple creations here that offered interesting fabrics, finishes and shapes without being fussy or trying too hard.

Earth tone, paisley patterns and a geek-tastic licensing deal with Star Wars were all plentiful at Etro's Spring/Summer 2020 runway show, though the combination of them all, along with the boho-chic created a bit of a disconnect in the collection.

Just last season, Fendi made homage to Karl Lagerfeld with a Karl-centric collection and soon afterwards, the German designer-extraordinaire died. So with this SS20 collection, Silvia Fendi put a reset on her family's house with a safari-themed collection - as if to say, they are now searching what Fendi is without Karl. The result was as extraordinary as the man who designs the women's collection with beautiful and sophisticated tailored pieces mixed with sexy and slightly naughty garments and an entire caravan of delectable accessories. Bravo to Silvia!

Palm Angels, purveyor of track suits, has evolved and with this refreshing Spring/Summer 2020 collection showed it's not a one-trick-pony. There was a lightness to this collection, via the butterfly motifs, Hawaiian shirt prints and tropical holiday vibe, that juxtaposed the more subversive parts, like the plasticized fabrics seen on trenches and the extra straps and closures, like one might seen on a dominatrix. It was a delicate balance that was masterfully executed with enough details to keep it interesting and fresh.

Chinese iconography was prevalent at Dean and Dan Caten's Spring/Summer 2020 collection DSquared2 and so was one of the most, if not the most, famous Chinese actors in history: Bruce Lee. While the idea of two white designers drawing "inspiration" from Chinese and Asian cultures could easily veer into appropriation, there was something respectful in the way these two did it - though, surely, some might disagree but a baseline effort at respect for the largest cultural on Earth is a good start. The high energy of the collection called to mind the idea of tiger energy - an apt description of this effort.

Few do Italian quirk quite like Marni and for Spring/Summer 2020, it came in a painterly and youthful folly way with oversized proportions - think boxy cuts, puddling pants and accessories so big you can only drag them rather than carry them. There were also some colorful choices that resembled brush strokes in browns or green on beige - the canvas upon which one creates.

You get exactly what you expect at Philipp Plein's shows and for those who crave that sort of maximalist, in-your-face excess, you got all that plus some very expensive licensed KISS logo'd apparel for SS20.

Just a few days ago, Giorgio Armani was in Japan to show his eponymous collection's Resort 2020 collection and now he's back in Milan to show another expansive collection for Emporio Armani's Spring/Summer 2020 collection. What a difference a days and a couple of timezones has on a collection. The former was classic with subtle nods to modernity while the latter was a slap in the face of second hand embarrassment of a collection that aimed to be youthful but just looked like it was trying too hard. Save for a few tailored looks at the end, this collection ranged from meh to plain cringe-y, like those parachute-inspired looks that were just unfortunate.

Neil Barrett threw nearly his entire aesthetic out the window with this too-youthful Spring/Summer 2020 collection that had a melting pot of ideas from psychedelia, existential pondering, knits with sex education on them and then his signature color-blocked tailored looks. It was a bit of a mess, as is his new crest-cum-logo. It's one thing to change things up but if something isn't broke, there's is no reason to try and kill it all together.

It was a wild and debaucherous collection of rock n' roll and punk influences at Versace's Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Full of leather, animal prints and meta references to itself, Versace's high energy collection was tampered a bit by the idea of death, take the hearse that twirled on a spinner at the top of the runway. But it wasn't morose - or not that morose - since it was covered in pink flowers, signaling punk and rebellion. The clothes tended to favor black leather, shiny and subversive Lurex, animal prints and branded sportswear like tees, with a litany of high markup accessories.

Ermenegildo Zegna is the biggest label in menswear and its R&D is some of the best in the fashion world. Their work on fabric research and creation is second to none and so when the biggest and mightiest of the fashion houses starts upcycling, the industry will notice. That's exactly what Alessandro Sartori did for this main collection. He recycled wool and nylon to create a big chunk of the collection and it looked as proper and pristine as any brand new fabric. There were even some fabric treatments that intentionally made clothes look lived in or down right wrinkled - likely those were the most expensive and made of what's considered virgin fabrics. Going back to the lived-in-ness of the collection, it was reflected and accentuated by the deep colors and the homeyness of patchworked garments while the lightness of knits exemplified the aforementioned R&D by utilizing wool - typically a heavier and warmth-inducing fabrics - into one that can easily be worn on a hot day.

Ancient statues, marble and a grandiose aesthetic made up the atmosphere at Gucci's Resort 2020 runway show, held in Rome. What is there to say about Gucci's collections? They tend to stay consistent in their aesthetic with varying degrees of esotericism - references to an overlord from this century or this poet from this decade. However, there was a modern edge to this collection and that was activism; something that Gucci has embraced under Alessandro Michele. This collection celebrated women and their rights - with stances taken for women's reproductive rights. This collection was especially devoted to women and so with that, one can make your own determination at the menswear below, which was not as decisive as the womenswear.

It's striking to think that Just Cavalli is one of the few diffusion lines still around - it hasn't been shuttered or folded into another line. It must signal that these more affordable wears continue to sell the bourgeoisie dream - if that dream includes animal prints, bright colors and flash. All three were present in this relatively tame collection that offered what younger shoppers want: denim, animal appliqueed clothing and branding.

British designer Craig Green returns for another capsule collection for Moncler's Genius line. This season, he focused on the warmth and packability of Moncler's puffers - done up here in extra voluminous proportions, which makes the packability of them even more impressive. Aesthetically, the rich colors and the dual - sometimes tri - colored outfits were stunning. Something functional and beautiful - a hard combo to get right.

Moncler's 1952 label is one of the few on display during Milan Fashion Week that is in-house. By that, there was no special collaboration with another maison or designer such as Palm Angels or Pierpaolo Piccioli. Instead, for 1952's FW19 collection, a worldwide view was taken with bottoms offering map views, shiny metallic puffers for skiing and other winter sports - whether at Gstaad, Vail or climbing Everest. In essence, Moncler's statement is: come one, come all.

Palm Angels's vision for its FW19 collaboration with Moncler played on the the latter's puffers with metallic finishes, graffiti prints and the former's popular tracksuits and branding.

Paul Surridge, who did stints at Zegna and Jil Sander, has hit his stride at Roberto Cavalli with a very strong and vibrant FW19 collection that offered a good mix of flamboyance and tailoring excellence. The striking and dramatic coats, either in pearlescent white or abstract wave pattern are just two example of Surridge's win this season.

Tomas Maier left Bottega Veneta abruptly and has laid low since but his successor at Bottega Veneta is not resting on his laurels by slowly making changes at the respected Kering-owned label. Instead, Daniel Lee challenged what we know about the Bottega aesthetic by offering a harder edged collection that harnessed the leather prowess of the house while infusing life into the label via structured outerwear, slouchy and asymmetrical knits - all tied together with a nod to rebellion and breaking the status quo, which is exactly what he did with his runway debut.