RUNWAY: Alexis Mabille FW1

Alexis Mabille's aesthetic for menswear is always quite soft, mixing feminine and masculine and creating a romantic, very-Parisian collection. Those elements were still present for Fall/Winter 2011 but a military theme was far more pronounced, starting with the opening coat, in army-green, cinched at the waist with a plaid belt and pants that were laced from the cuff to knee-height, a look much tougher than Mabille's usual dandy collections. It's no stretch to say this was was a departure for him, especially in contrast to his Spring/Summer 2011 collection, which was light, airy and took inspiration from forest faeries.