RUNWAY: Saint Laurent SS14
Heid Slimane channeled David Bowie for a rockin' good collection for Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Tight denim jeans were paired with cropped motorcycle jackets, which were iterations from Saint Laurent's Permanent Collection. Patent leather and animal print were also heavily featured to finish the picture visual of David Bowie at the height of his fame in the 70s and 80s. Disturbingly skinny models wore skinny ties that only exasperated their tiny, sub-sample size frames. Slimane's behavior at Saint Laurent is heavily noted but less known or, to be more accurate passed over by his detractors in the press, is that his collections are selling very well. Maybe it's true that any press is good press. We're sure that Kering, owner of Saint Laurent, is not second guessing their choice and confidence in Mr. Slimane.RUNWAY: Paul Smith SS14
British designer Sir Paul Smith looked to the swinging 70s as part of his inspiration for Spring/Summer 2014 and though Flower Power might have been the most on-trend viewpoint, Smith instead looked to mind-altering drugs as a starting point; mushrooms appeared on shirts and tees while psychedelic printed pants and jackets were showcased. A slimmer silhouette felt fresh and youthful because of Smith's connection to the London youth and music scene while the tailoring were well-made, per usual.RUNWAY: Thom Browne SS14
American designer Thom Browne is infamous for his off-kilter collections. Going into one of his shows is like opening Pandora's Box, one never knows what will emerge. For Spring/Summer 2014 it was all about gender bending marching bands players. Subversive takes on toy soldier uniforms, marching band hats and uniforms and some nautical references rounded out the out-there collection. There were also a large number of structured frock coats that might harken back to the Thom Browne dress and coat Michelle Obama wore during her husband's inauguration back in January 2013. There were very interesting pieces but one starts to question "Who is the Thom Browne man?" From punk-y football players to androgynous band geeks, how many eccentric personalities can one person have?RUNWAY: Sacai SS14
Japanese label Sacai played with proportion for SS14 and the result was, as usual, wonderful. Though little known among those outside of the fashion circuit and its devout customers, Sacai's collections are always a treat, usually mixing fabrics and ideas to create a unique view. Sporty stripes and florals were shown but the interesting parts came in the form of an oversized parka and very short trousers that were more akin to capris but didn't tetter to that ill-forsaken and never-flattering pant.RUNWAY: APC SS14
French label APC showed a captivating collection for Spring/Summer 2014 that was outwardly egalitarian but upon further inspection was quite novel in its fabrication and references. Take for example a 1950s inspired varsity jacket and instead of cotton with leather sleeves, it was created in summer-friendly linen for breathability and lightness. Though it wasn't as flamboyant or dandy-fied like other French labels, the collection featured enough cheeky details to appease and intrigue.RUNWAY: Lanvin SS14
Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz of Lanvin create such confections for the the house's men's label that it's a treat to see what the two come up with every season. Like many designers for Spring/Summer 2014 it was a fight to see what silhouette would win out, slim and body hugging or voluminous and fluid. At Lanvin, both received equal treatment. Mini shorts with jackets or a technical tanktop are sure to be a dandy's favorite outfit next year while a trench coat in a glossy finish was hard-edged and futuristic. Though we would have preferred a much more concrete vision for the Lanvin man, the options offered were numerous and sure to appease a greater range of men.
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