Demna Gvasalia is angry, evidenced by the word "böse" plastered on multiple garments, and his remedy is to call out the corporate overlords he thinks is the reason to be so angry. This includes pointing out companies such as Heneiken, Microsoft and others by utilizing their logos. For a label so concerned with the direction the world is going, how does one reconcile it with selling incredibly expensive clothes that look like they've been picked from the bottom of a neglected bin of clothes thrown away? I'd be böse too if I spent the kind of money Vetements is asking for these garments.

Vetement's latest outing let the animals loose, quite literally with taxidermy'd animals as the main focus of the showspace. However, the collection itself was quite anarchistic with political references from the mystery of who will be the US's 46th President, a hot take on privacy laws, and nationalism. For a collection that many will see as just a bit garish, with fluoro socks, ugly sneakers, hole-y knits and one particularly meta hoodie, there was an underlying theme on the current state of world politics.

Demna Gvasalia now lives in Switzerland and that neutral country is now the headquarters of Vetements but Gvasalia did not always live in an idyllic and neutral country. He grew in Georgia during a brutal civil war and that experience shaped him as a person and he used that as the basis for this hard-edged SS19 collection. There were par-for-the-course offerings including tracksuits, oversized hoodies and loosely cut denim; however. the more extreme elements of the collection were what drew the eye to it, whether it was the gimp masks, the nail closure boots or the general sense of despair.

There is an argument that can be made that says that Vetements and the election of people like Rodrigo Duterte in the Philippines, Donald Trump in the USA and the Brexit vote are actually similar or born out of the same movement. The fashion industry has long liked to perceive itself as being ahead-of-the-game, of being avant-garde; however, it is not immune to populist and anti-establishment uprising like the ones we've been seeing unfold worldwide. A prime example of this anti-establishmentism is Vetements. The label's rakish, off-kilter and sometimes just plain head-scratching collections has fully disrupted the industry.

For years, fashion's response to its diversity problem, though lackluster, was slowly being corrected, but, once again, like the aforementioned populist movement, when Vetements came out and they became all the rage, the look they put out there (think austere Eastern European models), the pendulum of change started to revert back towards a lack of diversity on the runway. The label has been called out for this in the past. To their credit, there are attempts, seen here, of trying to add more non-Caucasian models.

Whether the changes in fashion due to Vetements' is for the better or for the worse is one that's in the eye of the beholder. However, these clothes, which are highly inspired by Martin Margiela, lack the finesse and elegance of that mysterious Belgian designer. The label's signature oversized hoodies retail into the thousands; for seemingly being anti-establishment or whatever the terminology is, Vetements and its designer Demna Gvasalia seem keen on being at the very top of the fashion establishment or at the very least the top of the price range. Oh and yes, there were clothes at the FW18 show. They were up-cycled designs highlighting army fatigues, some with holes cut out to create a cascading and textured effect, plenty of oversized hoodies, and a t-shirt that really quite succinctly put into 5 words the very essence of the label: "Hi. I don't care. Thanks"

Aside from upending the fashion calendar by showing whenever and wherever he'd like, for example between end of the men's shows in Paris and the start of couture, on the ground level of Galeries Lafayette, Demna Gvasalia continues to upend the fashionscape as a whole. He opted to capture "real" people wearing Vetements in Zurich from teens to entire families. They posed in postures mocking signature couture poses while wearing the street-friendly designs that often had kitschy pop culture references on them.

Demna Gvasalia's Vetements showed its FW17 collection between men's Paris Fashion Week and the Paris Haute Couture. It was in this in-between space that Vetements lies. The label has always been quite tongue-in-cheek and kitschy, taking what's known and upending it. For FW17, that came in the form of uniforms: from army to geek chic. It was decidedly more "plain" looking, almost egalitarian were it not for the astronomical prices. Double-faced coats were incredibly warm and comfortable while accessories like ties became belts and armbands, all the more to show that there is more to Vetements than expensive sweats.

Vetements' co-ed Spring/Summer 2017, strangely, opened Paris Haute Couture fashion week with a collection made up of collaborations. Shown on the main floor of the famed Parisian department store Galeries Lafeyettes, the SS17 proffered a never ending barrage of oversized, strappy and purposely ill-fitting designs, many co-branded with brands like Brioni, Levis and Reebok. It's a statement, for sure. Though it may seem hypocritical to create these clothes with labels from more affordable companies like Levis, having previously said 'my friends very often cannot afford the clothes' and yet here they are creating clothes that even the fashion cognoscenti deem to be expensive clothing. Or that could be the whole point. C'est la vie, as they say.