John Galliano's latest collection for Maison Margiela is strong on tailoring, evidenced by the first half of the collection but quickly brought to the forefront the heart and ethos of Margiela with deconstructed, thoughtful and provocative garments - whether constrictive or loose and unkempt or loud and colorful or just plain chaotic - all of which is quite relatable in everyone's life as those are common emotions everyone feels most days and to see it reflected in technical clothing is evidence that Galliano still has "it".

Since John Galliano launched Margiela couture for men and emphasized a gender-fluid aesthetic at Maison Margiela - both in RTW and Artisanal - the Parisian label has kept its promise to become more inclusive. For its SS19 Artisanal collection, the mirrored floors, combined with the graffitied walls and equally print-heavy garments caused the eye to wander and wonder what to focus on. But this is fashion! One must focus on the clothes and they were adventurous as one expects haute couture to be. There were ideas on constriction and release, beauty and ugliness, and more; though the workmanship of creating these intricate clothes should be highlighted here because the viewer can easily shrug off this crazily styled collection but to hand-paint those sumptuous coats and to create those feather-weight jackets are a feat.

John Galliano is one of the few couturiers working together that still adhere to the codes made of yester-decade, one where the couture collection is the masterpiece, the one where all the ideas are proffered. Those ideas, while not always commercially viable, trickle down to ready to wear. That's exactly what he's done here with Maison Margiela's SS19 gender-fluid collection - it has trickled down from the first-ever Margiela couture (called Artisanal) for men. For the RTW collection, there were elaborate brocade bustiers, swimsuits, dramatic Crombie jackets-cum-capes and more - all of which were on offer at FW18 Artisanal. It was bold and intriguing and went with the theme of the collection, and of Margiela's new scent: Mutiny.

John Galliano has dabbled in menswear since he started at Maison Margiela but this is his first full menswear effort since being ousted from his namesake label. This is also a fully Artisanal collection, which means that all the pieces are couture-level in execution and fabrics - this also means these runway looks can and will be fully customizable for individuals with the cash flow. As an aside, there is a ready to wear collection that is available for buyers and editors to see, it is a more wearable and less experimental collection and will also be shown during women's fashion week in September.

Back to the Artisanal collection: Galliano sees the convergence of men's and women's clothing and so the influence of the feminine here is strong while still keeping the masculine silhouette in focus. Some might see the shapes as too extreme for men to wear and to that argument, that's the point. Haute couture has always been a launching pad for grand ideas that trickles down to pret-a-porter and Galliano is a classically trained couturier. That being said, this collection's big ideas are: genderless designs, opulent embroidery and garments that look tight and constricting but because of the elegant fabrics and handcrafted design, they are light as air, as if one is wearing nothing at all. There is also a big focus here on bias cuts to accentuate the body in flattering and, for men, new-ish ways. In all, the collection was a big comeback for the British designer, showcasing that he still has big ideas to show the world and the ability to execute them.

Maison Margiela's Fall/Winter 2018 collection is special because it is John Galliano's first collection for the avant-garde label and his first men's collection since his ouster at his eponymous label, so expectations were high. What would Margiela men under Galliano look like? He took the house codes of utilizing unusual materials and reworking recycled fabrics to create new and innovative takes on classic pieces, this included plasticized trenchcoats with mixed media materials while straps added another dimension to puffers. Hoof-shaped footwear added a familiar off-kilter element and the monochromatic looks were stark contrasts to what a John Galliano man would wear and that's a good thing.

A slender silhouette reigned supreme at Maison Margiela's FW17 men's collection. Though the clothes weren't specifically elongated, the trim tailoring created a lean silhouette that made the already tall models look slimmer and taller, a great effect for those who may not be as vertically endowed. Elsewhere, the collection's use of fabric continues to surprise while chunky footwear, with some boots offering a gradient effect, anchored the dreamy collection.

Maison Margiela is the original label that utilized recycling and the utilization of unusual fabrics to create thought provoking collections. It's been a long time since the namesake designer created the menswear collection but for SS17, the atelier proffered a new take on recycling: using fabrics that seemed to be the castoffs from prior collection: suits with stitching on the outside, as if they were the chalk marks use to guide the tailors. The deconstructed looks filtered to the coats, bottoms, shirts and knits throughout the collection as well.

The 1990s are alive and well in Paris. Maison Margiela's latest collection evoked the 90s love of nylon, think back to those famous nylon Prada bags. Here, the nylon was seen on outerwear and repurposed to create athleticwear, from biking shorts to a hybrid of tights and pants. A puffer Perfecto was especially eye catching.

As he did last season, John Galliano tapped a handful of men to wear his latest creations for Maison Margiela. For SS16, there were strong Sci-Fi influences mixed with fishnet tops and nautical rope straps like that seen on a repurposed dress.

Analog and a decade past were the starting off points for the latest MM6 collection. Mixed media denim, metallic pants and platform trainers knits rounded out the punk-inspired and gender neutral collection

John Galliano's latest collection for Maison Margiela - the "Martin" was the dropped since the namesake designer is no longer at the house - took a heady approach to tailoring for SS16. There were a myriad of long and flowy coats, like a double breasted top coat that nearly covered the body down to the ankles or a shiny plasticized vest of equal flow and length. Meanwhile, there were deconstructed and repurposed designs all around, from a nude vest to slashed and cut denim and deconstructed jackets.

John Galliano returns to the fashion calendar after a tumultuous few years and a tepid reaction to his first couture (read: Artisinal) collection for Maison Margiela. Today, he showed his first men's collection since being ousted from his namesake label. There were sharply tailored military coats, tie-dye vests, and shiny leather jackets. The strongest looks included a patchwork peacoat that looked like its facade was fingerpainted (also see the model's fingers) and its edges left unfinished, beautiful in its own disheveled and destroyed way. However, the collection felt a little unfocused: floral here, leather there, and military somewhere else. That being said, Galliano and the atelier may still be getting its bearings. If the subtle name change (or omission) is any indication, the transition of Maison Margiela will be equally as subtle and deliberate, shifting focus from the past and the heritage to what the new creative director envisions the future of Margiela will look like.

The use of unorthodox and unique materials are pare for the course at the house Martin Margiela built and for SS15 the team behind the label looked to create a hybrid collection, one that combines technical and functionality with art. Take the re-purposed parachute materials seen on a handful of waterproof trenches or the half jean/half tailored pants or even the shorts/pants combo.  There was an extreme take on raw edges while transparent tops at the end were a vision. Taking a little bit of this and a little bit of that to create something new and intriguing has been the strong point at Margiela and it was evident today.

The house that bears Martin Margiela's name is synonymous with odd fabric choices and FW14 is no different. Waterproof fabrics were seen but constructed from dinghies or repurposed diving vests while tailoring was soft but refreshing in its casualness. Flowy outerwear, like a camel trenchcoat with felt lining were luxurious and well executed while a high pile coat had Kanye's name all over it.