RUNWAY: Maison Margiela Artisanal SS19

John Galliano has dabbled in menswear since he started at Maison Margiela but this is his first full menswear effort since being ousted from his namesake label. This is also a fully Artisanal collection, which means that all the pieces are couture-level in execution and fabrics - this also means these runway looks can and will be fully customizable for individuals with the cash flow. As an aside, there is a ready to wear collection that is available for buyers and editors to see, it is a more wearable and less experimental collection and will also be shown during women's fashion week in September.

Back to the Artisanal collection: Galliano sees the convergence of men's and women's clothing and so the influence of the feminine here is strong while still keeping the masculine silhouette in focus. Some might see the shapes as too extreme for men to wear and to that argument, that's the point. Haute couture has always been a launching pad for grand ideas that trickles down to pret-a-porter and Galliano is a classically trained couturier. That being said, this collection's big ideas are: genderless designs, opulent embroidery and garments that look tight and constricting but because of the elegant fabrics and handcrafted design, they are light as air, as if one is wearing nothing at all. There is also a big focus here on bias cuts to accentuate the body in flattering and, for men, new-ish ways. In all, the collection was a big comeback for the British designer, showcasing that he still has big ideas to show the world and the ability to execute them.