Hood by Air's Shayne Oliver announced that the New York-based label would go on "hiatus" so its SS17 campaign will one of its last.

Shayne Oliver's SS17 collection for Hood by Air was sponsored by the NSFW website PornHub. As one may remember, Jonathan Anderson's runway show was livestreamed on Grindr so Oliver's collaboration with PornHub manifested itself in a very NSFW beauty look: semen-like goop on the faces of models. As for the clothing itself, it was a mix of subversion - see the plasticized fabrics and a nearly nude model wearing almost nothing under an oversized trench - and cultural commentary: he made comments on society's fixation on camera phones capturing everything but barely taking time to absorb their surroundings. Oliver's keen point of view is why he's drawing huge crowds as well as the attention of the fashion cognoscenti and that's evidenced by this wild, sometimes eccentric, collection.

Hood by Air's FW16 collection was all about travel and the future. Though comparison to Star Wars seems to be inevitable, with futuristic designs that are similar to that seen in the popular Sci Fi movies. Gender bending iterations harkened Princess Leia's famous side buns on men while hooded overcoats were similar to that of Queen Amidala. Meanwhile, plasticized fabrics and S&M references were seen throughout the collection that saw its return to the New York runways after a few seasons in Paris.

Underneath the outre and often ostentatious designs at Hood by Air is an actual narrative, one that needs to be more explored more or at least talked about more. For SS16, the label's designer Shayne Olivier played with the idea of kids in urban areas often being the inspiration for many high fashion designs but the designs are so out of reach for these middle and low income families that they have to resort to making their own.

This manifested into childhood uniforms, primarily from the 90s, like all-denim looks that transformed into DIY-esque proportions. One of the HBA's biggest coups is being on the frontier of what is increasingly an important and almost seismic shift in fashion: genderless fashion. Here, nearly the entire collection could easily be worn by any gender identity, from clinical coats to body-hugging athleticwear.

Paris' gay pride parade was a day before Hood by Air's Spring/Summer 2016 show but the bold and eclectic designers by Shayne Oliver would've fit in quite well with a pride parade. There was gender bending designs, lots of subversive and sexually charged designs, like tiered designs that would've slipped off had they been unzipped or high-slit trousers, all of which was worn by a sexually fluid cast that Oliver has trumpeted since his debut.

Shayne Oliver's unique vision has caught the eye of many a celebrity for its look-at-me designs, as well as teens looking for an alternative to the bland offerings they see at the mall. That being said, Hood by Air, with its superfluous HBA moniker plastered on nearly ever piece of clothing, may need to grow up eventually. It is still in its infancy, though, so the irrelevance and outlandishness of the designs and styling, seen here with slashed top coats, strait jacket-like bonding, and hose covered faces, is entertaining and maybe even endearing. However, the true test for the label, and for Oliver himself, comes when the collections start to blend and bleed into one another and how it moves forward. Though this collection may signal a shift away from all that look-at-me-ness towards sharp tailoring, like a paneled topcoat or a leather trench.

Hood by Air's celebration of the weird, the odd, and the off kilter often represents one of the most interesting shows during New York Fashion Week. The often outlandish styling and accessories make for intriguing gimmicks; this season it was all about lucite dog collars and pillories. Underneath all the "weird" there were rugged jackets, zipped trousers, transformable outerwear, and covetable hightop sneakers.

Hood by Air's hard edge and androgynous Fall/Winter 2014 collection was commendable in its inclusivity and diversity when it cames to model choice. This brand doesn't seem to be faking its street credibility like other brands do. There's an authenticity when it comes to the sewn jumpsuits and and leather clothes, as if they're clothes real people, not just fashion people, wear. That being said, many of the clothes seemed referential and with only a few seasons under its belt, Hood by Air could do well with offering a new perspective on clothes we've seen before on other runways from more venerable labels.

Hood by Air's second ever offering at New York Fashion Week highlighted a hypermasculinity not often seen at NYFW and more possibly attuned to Paris or London where risk and experimentation are more commonplace. That being said, the collection melded androgyny with futurism and dystopia; and enough branding on the clothes to rival any teen-oriented mall brand.