Legacy labels like Brioni have had a hard time since the proliferation of sporty and athletic clothing became the rage. But with the winds turning and starting to go in Brioni's favor, the Italian label has aimed to find a sweet spot between casual clothing like the slouchy joggers here and the high-end tailoring they are known for. They are still finding their footing.

As Brioni navigates a new world where millennials are aging in hoards into the workforce with a desire for less formal attire, the Italian label decided that there will always be a niche market where men need tailored attire. For SS19, they posit a collection that can dress every generation of a family and even every sex in the family. The tailoring is, of course, top notch, with wider lapels, open shirts and unbuttoned jackets, all evoking a less formal ethos without compromising the craftsmanship.

Brioni has eschewed a runway show since its disastrous collection with Justin O'Shea and now quietly presents its latest collections in a subdued manner, one that allows for closer inspection of these quiet and beautiful clothes without the fireworks and look at me attitude of today's Insta-obsessed culture. For heritage labels such as Brioni, this might be the way forward. And so for FW18, there was elegant suits, which were tailored to hang on the body just so, relaxed and masculine without being too tight or too flashy.

For his debut collection at Brioni, Justin O'Shea showed the Italian label's SS17 collection in Paris. The result was opulent, with exotic skins seen as trims or full coats, like a croc peacoat. Brioni, with its bread-and-butter suiting, is not immune to the shifts in fashion; how do they stay competitive in today's expansive fashion arena? Their first step was hiring O'Shea, more of an image-maker than designer by trade, and also to upend its typical fashion show by showing womenswear, as well as offering off-season (or fashion's preferred term 'seasonless') designs because if one can afford the lavish pieces here, why wouldn't you go somewhere cold to fully utilize the fur trimmed coat you just bought at Brioni?

Tailored suits and sportswear with a flare for fur and other luxe fabrications was the crux of Brioni's FW16 collection. Classic menswear fabrics like windowpane and herringbone proliferated the moody collection while sporty elements gave the expansive collection a youthful air, thanks in part to the slightly oversized coats, some with fur trim. Other elements, like the removable hood and bib, just did not work.

Brioni's slick and streamlined Spring/Summer 2016 collection was anchored by sharply cuts and neat silhouettes; the fluid proportions seen throughout London and Milan were absent here. Instead, there was a litany of well constructed clothes for city dwellers, from a cropped trench to a multitude of suits, some with modernist details like 3D patterns, patchwork or gilded detailing.

Dominik Bauer, Matt Woodhouse and Julien Nielsen star in Broni's Spring/Summer 2015 catalog, full of the Italian label's sharp suits and accessories, from tie clips and bags to their high fashion iteration of the classic wayfarer.

Brioni's decadent FW15 collection proffered a plethora of neutral colors from biege to navy to black. With only hints of other colors, like a copper mohair blouson or red peaking out of a coat, the collection invested its resources on the lushest of fabrics and most exotic of skins, take a mixed media cardigan, in cashmere and fur, or a fully lined crocodile trench, shiny and fitted like a glove.

Top model Sean O'Pry is lensed by famed photographer Paolo Roversi for Brioni's gauzy and dreamy Fall/Winter 2015 campaign.

Brioni's understated but ultra-luxe collection for FW14 had its eye on Japan, with its technical advances and interesting subcultures. Japanese fabrics and innovation were weaved, literally and figuratively, into the collection and mixed with the label's Italian heritage and tailoring.

Collier Schorr takes to the mountains for Brioni's snow-drenched FW13 campaign starring Jae Yoo, Ollie Edwards and Julien Nielsen.

Suit maker Brioni looked to its home, Rome, as the inspiration but gone are the warm tones and cobbled roadways more commonly associated with Rome. Instead, a sleeker aesthetic emerged that harkened a less tourist-clogged Rome. There was a softness in the sterility that the multitude of grey tones evoked, the hints of lavenders and steel blues looked like they were grey tones ever so softly touched by the sun. The restrained color palette was the main story while the tailoring and fit were all quite classic, just like the Eternal City.

Beautiful sartorial fashion was front and center for Brioni's Fall/Winter 2013 collection. Luxe fabrications accented the strong coats and streamlined silhouettes for the Italian house's excellent offering.