Kris Van Assche's take on Berluti combines old school tailoring and suiting with more street-friendly and egalitarian utility, something he also injected into Dior Homme during his long tenure there. For this SS20 collection, the footwear offered pointy toed oxfords in stunning and rich colors, some with boldly colored soles to complement the piping on a bag while sneakers looked futuristic and cool. As for the ready to wear, it was par for the course with hoodies mixed with jackets, fitted trousers, and supple leather garments.

Since departing Dior Homme, as it was then-named, to head up Berluti, Belgian designer Kris Van Assche has waited a long time to make his debut at Berluti. The result was mixed. There were some utterly sumptuous offerings like the supple leathers and, of course, the angular shoes while others fell flat - for example, those racing pants were just bad, the models could've walked out in their underwear and it would've been better. However, Van Assche has a good eye for quality and at Berluti, he has the resources and the atelier to offer up some of the most lusciously fabricated clothing and accessories. For the most part, he did just that, evidenced by the stunning hand-cut leather suit in the opening look all the way to the crocodile hoodie.

This is Haider Ackermann's second men's collection for Berluti and his aesthetic of louche and romantic clothing combined with the capital and economy of scale of Berluti and its corporate owner, LVMH, has turned Berluti into a must-see. To start off, there were a tremendous amount of buttery soft and luscious leather coats, jackets and shoes; leather is, after all, the house's claim to fame. But the evocative collection added rich and textured fabrics to bring a sense of comfort from the austere tailored overcoat, shirt, and pant combo; there were soft and elegant trenchcoats that made you want to hug yourself because they looked and likely felt as comforting as a baby's blanket. The color scheme was also quite lovely with touches of emerald, periwinkle, and copper.

After Haider Ackermann's excellent SS18 collection for his eponymous label, expectations were high at Berluti, where he is  the creative director. For his sophomore effort, he created unisex looks full of his signature soft tailoring in elegant fabrics, some offering a little sheen while other had sportier aspects like jogger but far less egalitarian. The most surprising part of the show were the plethora of sandals on display. Berluti is, after all, known for their incredibly expensive shoes, worn in boardrooms in some of the most prestigious companies in the world and the expansive sandal selection felt seismic for the label. It was just another sign that times are changing and Berluti, part of the LVMH family, does not want the trend boat to leave without them.

A changing of the guards, per se, happened at Berluti. Gone is Alessandro Sartori (now at Ermenegildo Zegna) and in is Haider Ackermann, who showed his eponymous menswear collection just two days prior. It was a curious choice for Berluti's owners, LVMH, to choose the Colombian-born designer. His tailoring aesthetic is much looser and is almost diametrically different than that of Sartori, who has designed Berluti from its expansion from footwear to ready-to-wear. Sartori's style has defined the Berluti look. As most people know, the menswear industry and male customers are not one for drastic changes. Change must be incremental and minute.

However, Ackermann put any reservations to rest with a very cool and rock n' roll tinged collection featuring sumptuous fabrics, dramatic coats and luxe accessories, including crocodile bags and a plethora of leather boots and shoes. The tailoring was still a little loose but in a cool way that rockers can easily pull off while the embellishment that Ackermann prefers in his namesake label was tame here, if at all present. It was a great debut and one that quickly and easily reset the Berluti man's look without scaring its current customers away with a totally new look and feel.

Alessandro Sartori has left Berluti and returned to Ermenegildo Zegna, therefore the design team created Berluti's SS17 collection which was decidedly sportier and more athletic-minded than previous outings. The focus on athleticism showcased sandals, sneakers and a brogue style that didn't quite evoke the richness of the label's heritage and the associated cost of owning the footwear, which is the company's bread and butter. A stronger view point and focus is surely needed to make this LVMH-owned label stand out against its competitors.

Alessandro Sartori's latest collection for Berluti was a feat in its simple silhouettes and rich layers but also in its ability to convey an air of ultra exclusive luxury, as well as covetable and eye-poppingly expensive footwear. The clothes were wider this season, like a dapper 50s gent would wear, while deep colors harkened those that one might see at an old time men's-only club where cigar smoke filled the air and maybe absinthe was the drink of choice. There was a hard edge that ran rampant through the show, thanks to the fake tattoos of artist Scott Campbell. It was a wonderful collection in quiet luxury and if Berluti's corporate owner is not (legally) allowed to purchase anymore shares of Hermes, Sartori is giving Mr. Arnault the next best thing.

A kitschy and fun pre-show presentation kicked off Berluti's SS16 runway show and proffered a flurry of effusive colors that combined Alessandro Sartori's exquisite tailoring skills with Berluti's super-luxe footwear heritage. There were also plenty of bags to complement the jewel toned colored, chic Italian tailoring that Sartori is known for and high end denim that's invading nearly every label this season.

See the full collection here.

Berluti's Alessandro Sartori created a sporty collection that was anchored by a plethora of chic and comfortable knits and the elegant, Italian tailoring the designer is known for. Besides the ready-to-wear, there were also plenty of luxe footwear, so luxe that their four-digit price tags would make even a millionaire's eyes pop out. Berluti is also expanding on its leather accessories, as seen by the pared back and logo-free bags, such as a three-zip, three-compartment briefcase, enough to hold all manner of business.

Alessandro Sartori's latest Berluti collection was a triumph in utilizing LVMH's resources with the elegant tailoring he's synonymous for. Lush cashmeres, butter soft leathers and luxe suedes were seen throughout the collection on safari jackets, trenches and knits. Meanwhile, the suiting offered classic Italian proportions. The story at Berluti, of course, always lies on the footwear. This season there a myriad of options from casual slip ons to perforated sneakers to more formal options like tasseled loafers.

Since departing Z Zegna for Berluti, Alessandro Sartori's designs have not seen the bright lights of a runway. That all changed this season as Berluti put on their first runway show under Sartori and the result was a multi-generational event with supremely chic designs. Roomy coats were matte and well executed while sportswear and suiting had the signature Sartori aesthetic: a mix of youthfulness and classic Italian tailoring. In a word, the collection was marvelous. Bravo to LVMH for tapping Sartori to take Berluti, a stuffy cobbling label, to one of the most highly anticipated collections coming out of Paris nowadays.