RUNWAY: Berluti FW16

Alessandro Sartori's latest collection for Berluti was a feat in its simple silhouettes and rich layers but also in its ability to convey an air of ultra exclusive luxury, as well as covetable and eye-poppingly expensive footwear. The clothes were wider this season, like a dapper 50s gent would wear, while deep colors harkened those that one might see at an old time men's-only club where cigar smoke filled the air and maybe absinthe was the drink of choice. There was a hard edge that ran rampant through the show, thanks to the fake tattoos of artist Scott Campbell. It was a wonderful collection in quiet luxury and if Berluti's corporate owner is not (legally) allowed to purchase anymore shares of Hermes, Sartori is giving Mr. Arnault the next best thing.