Astrid Andersen, the designer known for her 90s-centric, hyper-masculine collections that borrowed heavily from basketball, grew up a bit this collection. The clothing appeared more adult - though definitely not business casual if one is wondering, though there some great grown up coats like an oversized houndstooth. There were still echos of hip hop culture via the fur coats and nods to earlier collections, although the focus seemed to be on graphic patterns and prints, with knits also standing out. Technically it was a strong collection and will likely resonate with the same loyal fanbase she's attracted.

Astrid Andersen, known for her hypermasculine designs and a penchant for basketball references, eschewed a runway show and the 90s influence and went retro and a bit surreal. The SS19 collection had space age-inspired, circa 1970, designs in metallic fabrics like a faux-croc wide pant while jauntily striped outfits contrasted the Mars-like set, complete with crocodile because, why not? There was also multiple iterations of the tracksuit, a garment that many a label are aiming to perfect.

Astrid Andersen showcased a small selection of high-end bespoke looks during London Fashion Week, offering her growing clientele customized looks of her street-inspired designs but in ultra luxurious fabrics and made to fit.

Astrid Andersen's niche is her ability to meld hypermasculine themes with a strong female sensibility, as well as sensitivity. For FW18, there were strong cowboy and Americana vibes from the cowboy hats to the plethora of plaids; she took those iconic images of masculinity and imbued them with lacey layers or metallic fabrics that glittered and shined as they strode along the runway, all to great effect.

Opulent basketball chic has been Astrid Andersen's trope since her eponymous label started. For her latest outing, that look grew up a bit; it was more polished and had a softer, almost feminine overlay, helped by the lace headpieces many of the models wore, resembling a kufiya. The pared back designs and styling, save for a fur coat that seemed a bit out of place, elevated Andersen's collection into the general space and not just for men who long for the dog days when they thought they would be the next Michael Jordan.

Hyper-masculinity and a heavy focus on 90s dress codes are two of the cornerstones for Astrid Andersen's collections. For Fall/Winter 2017, both were still present but the addition of lush fabrications like velvet and animal print brought the collection to a new and very chic level, while softening the aesthetic a bit. These men are confident in who they are and aren't fazed by the idea of wearing a fur coat with an animal print. Maybe masculinity is really all about having confidence in who you are; such a novel and simple idea that Andersen hits precisely but one that still alludes a majority of men.

Masculinity and femininity merge on Astrid Andersen's Spring/Summer 2017 runway show. Her typical hyper masculine designs, on strapping men, were accented with lace, gilded fabrics and mesh layers. Also seen on the runway was womenswear, with Andersen adding herself to the growing list of labels who opt to show men's and women's together.

Astrid Andersen's play on fabrics and her love for 90s culture and fashion had an air of militarism. The result was striking, like the opening look's overalls, seemingly innocuous, but powerfully chic and wearable. The same goes for the rest of the collection which ranged from fur trimmed outerwear to her signature branding. The utilization of fabric is the true star here, from classic menswear fabrics made rugged and street-wise while pastels on jumpsuits and boxing pants made were a perfect balance of masculine and kitsch.

Florals and hypermasculinity combined at Astrid Andersen's Spring/Summer 2016 collection and it felt like a metaphor for today's man. A dichotomy of hard vs soft seen not just in the cherry blossom-lined athletic wear but also in models that wore her wears. Andersen's collections always offer bold masculinity, inspired by those who call the hardened streets of, say, Harlem or South London home. However, for SS16, the softness of the fabrics, their fluidity and the aforementioned floral accents softened the aesthetic, as if to say, these men, and this label, have multiple layers.

Militarism and hip hop culture were mashed together for Astrid Andersen's hyper masculine FW15 collection. It could be said that the mop-less heads of these models signaled an Eastern European starting point, possibly due to the on-going military actions in Ukraine. Her boxy silhouettes and hard edged designs takes a surprising turn when flashes of pink and lace, often times pink lace, trickled through the masculine designs. There was even a pink ushanka. In all, the result is a one-two punch of excellent design and narrative.

Duality was key to Astrid Andersen's SS15 collection. The London-based designed opted for an East Asian theme that melded her tough and sporty street-inspired designs with the softness of kimonos and lace. Transparency was also key, seen in paper-thin layers or touches of lace revealing rock hard abs and strong upper bodies. As for footwear, her choice of utilizing Nike ballet-style slippers added to the softness of the sporty looks.

Astrid Andersen's army of (mostly) long haired models invaded the runway at her FW14 show wearing hard-edged fashion in yet another ode to 90s fashion, with shiny fabrics reflecting the light from the hot lights and silvery runway and creating an almost ethereal glow around the clothes. Andersen's penchant for elongated proportions and urban sportswear sets her apart in London where the norm is high-end suiting and trenchcoats. It's refreshing to see something that isn't typically English at the London shows.