Minimal to its core, Acne Studios offered up small changes to its core collection with patterned leggings, fringed sleeves and criss-cross cutout bottoms. But the bulk of the collection followed the same aesthetic and logic of many Scandinavian brands of minimal, functional and quiet.
RUNWAY: Acne Studios SS20
Though they weren't the bug-eyed, green-skin type, Walter Van Beirendonck's aliens were angular creatures with more than four arms, spotted and patterned. The avant-garde Belgian designer imagined what his fantasy aliens would look and dress like (oddly Bowie-esque). The result was a colorful, light-hearted and, at times, thoughtful in its useful of plastics as an allegory for pollution and waste.
RUNWAY: Walter Van Beirendonck SS20
It might be a big confusing to see all the layers upon layers of clothing that OAMC put on the runway at its SS20 show. But these beguiling layers were light and airy with some autumnal patterns thrown in for good measure.
RUNWAY: OAMC SS20
Dust off your tailored suits because Undercover says they're back in fashion. Or leave those cobwebs on your suits, Undercover embossed their suits with the pattern, which heightened the creepy and scary images that were emblazoned those mostly-black clothes. Tailoring was especially strong, with austere silhouettes which belied the images from horror movies from decades past from Dracula to Mr. Hyde.
RUNWAY: Undercover SS20
Climate change is on the mind of many - just ask the thousands of school-aged kids who walked out of their schools around the world a few weeks ago to protest the lack of action to curb, slow or stop climate change. It is also on the mind of Mihara Yasuhiro, evidenced here by his Spring/Summer 2020 collection rooted in a morose take on dressing - with references to hazmat suits, construction workers and overpopulation (how many faces can one fit into a pair of trousers?).
RUNWAY: Maison Mihara Yasuhiro SS20
Starting off with a mostly-all-black opening looks, White Mountaineering layered upon those black layers vibrant animalia prints, flora, and more to create an outdoorsy collection of utilitarian clothes with some serious style. Take those subtle leopard print outerwear: loose and flowing, making them all the better to move in, while also creating a great dramatic effect as one hikes or runs or runs errands. That's the thing about utility, it's for all occasions and while ahtleisure was all the rage a few seasons ago, the tried and true labels like White Mountaineering forge forward with their vision of melding fashion and utility harmoniously.
RUNWAY: White Mountaineering SS20
Sacai's latest collection was about tying together a collection of disparate influences together - or in some cases, un-tying them, like those bowties that were left hanging around the models necks. There were references to the tropics a la palm tree'd shirts to The Big Lebowski. In-between, there were new take son tailoring and the bucket hat, which got an update via an elongated side that turned it into a semi-wide-brimmed hat like one might see on the beach.
RUNWAY: Sacai SS20
Deconstructing the stand blue business shirt is the mantra of Comme des Garcons Shirt and for its SS20 collection, the label offered artsy takes on that requisite part of any man's wardrobe with colorful geometric shapes and even fake-leather jerkins like one might see at a medieval joust. Just par for the course for Comme des Garcons.
RUNWAY: Comme des Garçons Shirt SS20
Tunics and caftans littered Jonathan Anderson's latest collection for LVMH-owned Loewe to great effect. The bohemian-chic aesthetic felt especially new with these laid back, beach-ready layers in (sometimes) sun-bleached hues or cool pastels in pink or blue. In all, a strong effort from Anderson.
RUNWAY: Loewe SS20
Junya Watanabe's workman-inspired collections all follow a similar trend; maybe lighter fabrics in summer or heavier, more woolen ones in winter. But in the end, he's got his niche and fills it with covetable clothes with utilitarian inspirations and a modest, care-free vibe.
RUNWAY: Junya Watanabe SS20
Camp never looked so good as it does at Lazoschmidl's colorful, silly-slash-sexy Spring/Summer 2020 collection, which highlighted high school stereotypes dialed up with flamboyance. There were jocks and geeks and the sex-loving band geek, complete with a knit that said "I LOVE PENIS". Because, why not?
RUNWAY: Lazoschmidl SS20
Clothing, especially menswear, has always been seen as a form of armor. Why do you think there are many military-inspired collections every season? GmbH's latest collection also took on the idea of armor but this one was less military and more superstition. An "evil eye" is given to someone as a gift and the intention is the receiver of the eye has no evil done on to them and so a collection full of evil eye motifs aims to protect the wearer from evil. The idea is done quite nicely and elevated by the sleek and laid back tailoring while the sophisticated finishes brought an air of luxury to these relatively cheap souvenirs that litter the tourist bodegas in certain countries.
RUNWAY: GmbH SS20
Sailors and sailing are a popular trope to explore, especially during the Spring/Summer collections. The latest Ann Demeulemeester collection did just that and fell into the trap of being too literal with roped accessories seen as bag handles, roped belts, sailor collars and more. It wasn't all bad, of course, some of it will appeal to some but as a collection, it lacked the sensual energy of the namesake designer and, likely, more importantly, the originality.
RUNWAY: Ann Demeulemeester SS20
For its menswear debut, Sies Marjan showed two collections at once: the looks that offered heavier outerwear and thicker layers were for Fall/Winter 2019, which are now available for purchase, while the lighter, more ethereal looks were for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2020 collection, due out in about 6 months. While there were clothes for literally any season, the vibe flowed quite nicely between the two. One didn't feel heavier or out of place or too flowy and out of place - instead, the delicate balance of wearability with a sexy and sensual edge worked well for both set of clothes.
RUNWAY: Sies Marjan SS20
For Carol Lim and Humberto Leon's swan song at Kenzo, they returned to a familiar theme: water. This Spring/Summer 2020 collection was undoubtedly bittersweet and seemed to hark back on their tenure at Kenzo, which in fashion years is quite an eternity with designers leaving their posts within two-to-three years. For this final collection, there were neoprene shorts, chunky mesh tees and slouchy track jackets to round out the sporty and athletic collection.
RUNWAY: Kenzo SS20
RUNWAY: Wooyoungmi SS20
While the rest of was oogling over the idea of decades-past, Paul Smith not only lived through them but was designing during those times. So for his Spring/Summer 2020 collection, he looked the double-breasted suits that were popular in the 70s and 80s and injected them with modernity in the form of looser silhouettes, technical detailing and fabrications and a color palette that is made for the modern man who's confident enough to wear pastels and neon colors.
RUNWAY: Paul Smith SS20
dunhill, the heritage English label, proffered boxy tailored garments that aimed to evoke a 1950s vibe while injecting modernity and class to these clothes. While some of the proportions were a bit much, the elegant finishes and fabrications helped convey the idea of quiet luxury while the louder tailored pieces like the comically proportioned jackets with tie clips (but no tie) looked a bit, well, silly. At the end, the collection made a valiant effort after a few seasons of tepid outings.
RUNWAY: dunhill SS20
Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrated his ten year anniversary as a designer with a co-ed show in the South of France in a lavender field. Though he's only been doing menswear for a third of that time, menswear featured equally in this co-ed Spring/Summer 2020 collection with tailored, albeit boxy, garments, youthful prints and a carefree French attitude that draws legions of admirers to the South of France during a heatwave.
RUNWAY: Jacquemus SS20
Maybe it was the severity of the tailoring or the subversiveness of the zippers and chains but something about Alyx's latest collection drew the eye to the clothes. It was edgy - not a word used often here to describe a collection - and cool with panels, velcro'd closures, and futurism that treaded between dystopic to hopeful. The latter is in reference to the hope that tailoring will actually come back in style after years of joggers, athleisure and sneakers.
RUNWAY: Alyx SS20
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