RUNWAY: Dior Men SS19
There is so much to unpack with Kim Jones' debut at Dior, one of three designer debuts during this season at Paris Fashion Week and all three from LVMH. First was Virgil Abloh's debut at Louis Vuitton, then this debut from Jones for Dior Men - more on that later and before PFW is over, Dior Homme's former director, Kris Van Assche, will debut at Berluti.Name changes in fashion are often met with huge blowback, remember the Saint Laurent change under Hedi Slimane? Here, Jones chose to subtly change Dior Homme to Dior Men. It was barely a recognizable change, one that many will simply ignore since it wasn't a directive change. But it's a big one nonetheless.
Then there was the clothing itself: surprisingly light and airy with floral notes and touches of Monsieur Dior's archives, which Jones did a deep dive on upon arriving at HQ and willfully ignoring Hedi Slimane's Dior Homme archives. The opening look, worn by Prince Nikolai of Denmark, set the tone via a blue and white suit, sporty in its cut but offering enough sartorial elegance to pique the appeal of wealthy men, maybe those with royal blood. Elsewhere, the collection's collaboration with KAWS manifested itself in accessories sure to cause Dior's parent, LVMH, to see plenty of dollar signs. There were also sexy layers of florals under transparent outerwear, something we've seen plenty of this season from Prada to Louis Vuitton. In all, the collection was a huge success and its front row of well wishers, friends and industry titans, including the ever-present Dior (Homme) client Karl Lagerfeld, seems to indicate that Kim Jones is likely the most beloved menswear designer.