RUNWAY: Calvin Klein Collection FW17While many labels are leaving New York Fashion Week, Raf Simons' appointment at Calvin Klein and the migration of his namesake label's runway show to NYFWM makes New York one of the most anticipated fashion weeks. Today was the debut of Simons' unified vision for Calvin Klein. Before the clothes came onto the runway, the showspace was decorated by his friend, Sterling Ruby, a constant collaborator, from their collaborative collection to Ruby's work with Simons while he was at Dior.
The collection was an ode to America, an idea that, in light of recent events - specifically the election and its aftermath - made the collection a point of reflection. A juxtaposition between that ode to American dressing and American values with the blaring soundtrack that, at times, said "this is not America" was not lost on many.
Calvin Klein's rich history, albeit much shorter than America's, offered a lot for Simons to pay homage to, from its iconic campaign imagery (like the Brooke Shields ads that were emblazonzed as labels on the back of jeans) to its minimal aesthetic to its overt sexual overtones. All were present and played harmoniously together. The strongest pieces in the men's collection were the oversized coats with a quilt pattern lining, offering a minimalist look when zipped but resplendent detailing on the inside. The sex appeal came in the form of sheer tops and shrunken knits that revealed a jutting hip bone while tailoring was looser and leaned on athleticism while the subversive all-leather look lent the American factory worker's overalls a high-end update.