Showing posts with label New York. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York. Show all posts
June marks Pride Month and this June is extra, extra special in New York City - where Private Policy showed its SS20 collection. On June 29, it marks the 50th Anniversary of the Stonewall Riots, which thought of by most as being the most definitive time in LGBTQ+ history. This year's Pride March in NYC is also World Pride Day where an estimate million-plus people are planning to descend on the concrete jungle to celebrate. Private Policy's latest collection pays homage to the on-going effort to bring full equality to this community, especially in light of a barrage of anti-LGBTQ+ efforts by many governments. Private Policy also honors two trans-activists: Marsha Johnson and Sylvia Rivera.
So, what of the collection? It was about celebration, freedom but also about struggle. It was not all rainbows and feather boas and tropes of LGBT life but instead a thoughtful look at the lives, wardrobes and struggles of the community.
So, what of the collection? It was about celebration, freedom but also about struggle. It was not all rainbows and feather boas and tropes of LGBT life but instead a thoughtful look at the lives, wardrobes and struggles of the community.
RUNWAY: Private Policy SS20
N. Hoolywood took inspiration from British fashion for SS20 - twisting it in interesting ways. Take boxy trousers that resembled sleeves instead of actual pants or a well-cut coat with raw edges or the label's take on the British underground via a sublime moto jacket or the ill-thought-out pill prints.
RUNWAY: N. Hoolywood SS20
A small dose of menswear highlighted Monse's tailoring-heavy Resort 2020 collection, set on a sunny deck in New York City. For this collection, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia looked to old school tailoring and modernized them by playing with shapes, mixing media and unisex dressing.
RUNWAY: Monse Resort 2020
Prints complemented Coach 1941's bohemian vibe - a theme that's been steady since Stuart Vevers took over. The result was fine but the sea of brown-hued and flowy clothes seemed far too familiar and not quite as alluring as it once did.
RUNWAY: Coach 1941 Resort 2020
Psychedelia and the 70s are on display at The Elder Statesman's Resort 2020 collection, which is full of vibrant colors and throwbacks to childhood fantasy. Take the Ouija board knit or the spaces, it all culminated in a light and fun collection to mark the beginning of a new decade by looking back at decades past.
RUNWAY: The Elder Statesman Resort 2020
The 1980s gave us the mullet (business in front, party on the back) and while Krammer & Stoudt's SS20 collection is definitely not a mullet, it has a similar duality to it: a ode to workmanship with a strong influence of rave culture. Boxy silhouettes anchored the collection that was mostly in dark and white tones aside from bold flashes of glow-stick fluoro colors. It was a different take on day-to-night dressing for sure.
RUNWAY: Krammer & Stoudt SS20
David Hart, purveyor of tailored clothing, offered up a much more urban collection for Spring/Summer 2020. So urban, in fact, that it partnered with the Weegee Estate to print images from the famed photographer's photos of the steel jungle: New York City.
RUNWAY: David Hart SS20
Drama, vibrant colors and tailoring are hallmarks of Abasi Rosborough's latest collection that aimed to highlight the label's ethical-minded collections with the popular, limited-edition model that many fast fashion and high-end labels are wont to do while offering customization for a truly limited edition-vibe for these high drama clothes.
RUNWAY: Abasi Rosborough FW19
Kozaburo looked to his heroes for his FW19 collection for inspiration. They were Bruce Lee and Michael Jackson, though with the more-recent release of a documentary on Jackson's illicit activities, now might not have been the best time to look to him for inspiration. Nevertheless, this FW19 collection melodiously combined the two inspirations with slim, masked men in ornate designs that mixed East and West.
RUNWAY: Kozaburo FW19
Tom Ford kicked off New York Fashion Week with a co-ed show but a few weeks before, he unveiled the lookbook for its men's collection. While the runway show highlighted the evening-wear portion of this collection, there was a lot of product to take in. The one that made the biggest impact were the assymetrical puffers with kangaroo pockets. Props to Ford for trying something new but no matter the finish, they were a bit of an assault on the eyes. Less so was the rest of the collection, especially the looks that melded a relaxed and tailor look, with the sort of lush finish one expects from Tom Ford.
RUNWAY: Tom Ford FW19
There is a homeyness to Bode's garments, part-fashion and part-homemade. It could be due to the designer's love of vintage fabrics and working them into modern styles while aiming to keep the fabric's moment-in-time integrity. There were cool abstract patterns made from these fabrics, as well as patchwork garments on top and on the bottom, mixed and matched to create a dimensionality. Because, after all, everyone has more than one facet - one's clothes should be a reflection of that.
RUNWAY: Bode FW19
London isn't the only fashion capital whose fashion denizens are environmentally conscious. Dyne's Christopher Bevans is one who uses fabrics that are leftover at mills, thereby reducing the carbon footprint. Even without that mind, the clothes are stunning with their high saturation, functionality and cuts - a trifecta that becomes all the more impressive that these clothes are good (or at least better) for the environment.
RUNWAY: Dyne FW19
Utility runs deep within rag & bone's DNA and that continues into its FW19 collection with an emphasis on the utility and functionality of blue collar uniforms. These clothes are intended to have purpose in one's life - to ease the struggles of its wearer, whether it be shielding it from the cold like warm flannel layers to offering more pockets to keep one's gadgets. While not groundbreaking, it will sell, which is helps keep the label afloat.
RUNWAY: rag & bone FW19
Minimalist label Theory opts for high-end fabrications rather than following the trend of logos and maximalism for its FW19 collection. This renewed focus on quality was most evident in the thick and luxurious coats, its take on a utilitarian-cum-military pant, and the supple leathers it used.
RUNWAY: Theory FW19
Retro fashion has been a big part of Ovadia & Sons's mantra and that was evident here with 50s-styling, including bowling shirts, boxy bottoms, and even prints of poodle-skirted girls at a dance. Some kookier pieces included fur-trimmed lining on a parka, a very oversized bag in a mixed-media camo pattern and an iridescent coat.
RUNWAY: Ovadia & Sons FW19
Utility is at the heart of Engineered Garments and making functionality fashionable is not always easy and that's where Engineered Garments' FW19 collection falters. In an attempt to make the latest trend (workwear) fashionable, the collection - with its drab colors and hand-me-down-inspired looking - look like something unappealing. The point of fashion in these sorts of instances is to elevate the inspiration, make it different and substantiate the price tag, which it did not do this season.
RUNWAY: Engineered Garments FW19
In the menswear world, Hugo Boss is, for lack of a better word, The Boss. They are a behemoth of a brand that outsells every other men's label. The combination of their main offerings like suits with sportier and more athletic designs under their Orange label and all the multitude of labels attracts wide swathes of male customers all over the world and for FW19, they doubled down on that tailoring and minimalist heritage and offered homier designs; think more relaxed with an emphasis on looser cuts and more luxe fabrics.
RUNWAY: Boss FW19
Gypsy Sport has championed inclusivity since its start and it seems like its FW19 collection is a strong reaction to the backlash of transphobic and size-phobic comments made by an executive at Victoria's Secret. Though the word "gypsy" is quite controversial itself, for the label's FW19 outing, it doubled down on beauty in varying and non-tranditional ways from the color of one's skin, to one sexual orientation to gender identity. To the middle point's reference, the LGBT community's promise of a welcoming community is often bogged down with massive amounts of racism and exclusion, one that this label comments on quite strongly, especially to those with a trained eye.
RUNWAY: Gypsy Sport FW19
House dresses, doilies, and more were on Vaquera's FW19 runway during New York Fashion Week. These were clothes that were meant to play on the growing trend of homebodies among the young - often too dragged down by the world of social media that they escape by staying in. It's an intriguing phenomenon that Vaquera's unique perspective aims to capture and highlight.
RUNWAY: Vaquera FW19
If you've been living under a rock, you might've missed the controversy surrounding Philipp Plein's NYC debut. He had loudly announced that Kanye West would be performing but much to the chagrin of a few red-hat-wearing fans, West was not performing and Plein had been duped, much like how customers continue to be duped into thinking what he offers is fashionable. Nevertheless, the show did go on and it offered American tropes that had been done better and with more authenticity than shown here. At least he can throw a nice party, but then again, when your budget is upwards of $2.5 million, who can't throw a nice party a few times a year?
RUNWAY: Philipp Plein FW19
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