RUNWAY: Givenchy FW13

A ring of fire (via candles) engulfed Givenchy's circular Fall/Winter 2013 runway; the setting echoed the collection's dark and even primal aura. Givenchy's Creative Director Riccardo Tisci chose to have black leather dominate the show; gone were the holographic images of the Virgin Mary from SS13, in its place were references to works of art, pop culture and even hints of pornography. Puffers were casually tied around the waist while the added androgyny of the models, including Jenny Schimizu, re-emphasized Tisci's love of unisex tailoring or borrowing men's tailoring and creating it for women or vice versa. A handful of looks ratcheted up the edge factor as they resembled Medieval garb. There were also a strong selection of suiting with Tisci favoring a futuristic take by removing the collar and lapels and giving the jacket a jolt of sterility. It was a quiet and subversive collection and another strong effort from the Italian designer.