Showing posts with label Givenchy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Givenchy. Show all posts
It was only three weeks ago that Clare Waight Keller made her debut with a full fledged menswear collection for Givenchy and now it's time for her men to don couture. This Fall/Winter 2019 collection offered ostentatious luxury with glistening brocades and ultra-luxe fabrications while still adhering to the sharp tailor that Keller has established herself to be. From a dramatic jacket-cum-cape to a floral patterned metallic coat to the final men's look in paisley, there was drama and flamboyance to be had. If one can afford these looks, why wouldn't one live life to the fullest?



RUNWAY: Givenchy Haute Couture FW19

Clare Waight Keller's first full-fledged menswear collection was shown in Florence to much anticipation. Until now, we've only ever had a smattering of men's looks interspersed among her larger womenswear collection for Givenchy. What was the result? It was an interesting posit with specific influences - Korean subcultures and Korean technical advances, the latter showing up in the technical fabrics. Tailoring also made a big impact here and it should since it's what Keller has been showing on her Givenchy men since her very first college - for couture, no less. That's where she shined brightest - sometimes quite literally with glistening tailored garments, such as a shiny brocade on a coat. Other interesting looks came in the form of the oversized parkas in liquid-y metallic fabrics and rave-inspired influences. In the end, it was a good effort and one that highlighted that her strength is in evening wear and tailoring.



RUNWAY: Givenchy SS20

After we lamented that Clare Waight Keller has only shown a handful of menswear during her tenure at Givenchy, news broke soon after that she was invited to present her first full menswear Givenchy collection at Pitti Uomo - in just a matter of hours. But first, Resort 2020, which will likely preview what this full-fledged collection will offer. Here, there was a mixture of tailoring with sportier and athletic pieces - tailored jackets with lime-green bombers or oversized trench with flowing denim and azure track jacket. The strongest pieces were the tailored looks, whether cropped and cut close to the body or fluid and puddling on the floor but how to make that and the obvious branding seen here on bags and coats (and the pavement) into a full collection? Well, friends, we will find out.



RUNWAY: Givenchy Resort 2020

Givenchy under Clare Waight Keller is a curious thing. She's a brilliant designer who offers up sophisticated and beautiful garments and is influential in ways that some designers are envious of - just look who gave her the top prize at the British Fashion Awards (a certain Duchess!). However, that being said, her menswear is lacking - not in fashion or ideas - but breadth. With just a handful or so of men's looks, how can a major fashion label like Givenchy excite nearly half of the population and a segment of the fashion industry that's growing at a faster rate than womenswear? The small selection of menswear that shows up during her women's collections and during Givenchy's haute couture collections are quite good. To be able to expand on those ideas to give men more of it would be a wise choice. The sharp cuts of the trousers, the delicate detailing on a coat or the drama of patent leather pants and a snakeskin print shirt are all things that could speak to a wide swathe of male fashion lovers - if it wasn't such an after thought that many forget that Givenchy still makes men's clothing now that Tisci is gone.



RUNWAY: Givenchy FW19

Mere days after the end of men's fashion week Fall/Winter 2019, haute couture starts in Paris and, as has been the case since her arrival, Clare Waight Keller offered up a handful of men's looks for Givenchy. The silhouettes were taut and streamlined and looked prime for either men or women while opulent details.



RUNWAY: Givenchy Haute Couture SS19

There is a familiarity in Clare Waight Keller's Givenchy; it could be the rocker-infused style or possibly the animal graphics. Regardless, for Resort 2019, Keller presents a men's collection for Givenchy that captures a part of the ethos of Givenchy's spirit, one championed by its former designer but added a tighter silhouette, a stronger East Asian influence and a bit of dandy refinement.



LOOKBOOK: Givenchy Resort 2019

There is something so refined and elegant about Clare Waight Keller's designs for Givenchy. Even when she does hard-edged designs like a cobalt biker's vest, the finish softens the garment while the styling elevates the blue collar item to something far more elegant. When she does evening, with shimmering beading, from another designer, it might look disco and gaudy but it was light and, in a way, ethereal like the wearer is a holy ball of light.



RUNWAY: Givenchy SS19

This is Clare Waight Keller's second couture collection Givenchy (or ever, for that matter) and once again, a handful of menswear looks came down the mirrored runway. This FW18 haute couture collection was created with Hubert de Givenchy on the mind, as he died a few months ago and only weeks after Keller was announced as Riccardo Tisci's replacement. For FW18, there were elegantly tailored coats with marvelous detailing, from shimmering lining to featherwork and sequins that's often only reserved for womenswear because of the highly skilled handwork needed but this is couture, after all. Though there were only a few looks, the clean lines and the exquisite details made it memorable and desirable for the man (or woman) with pockets deep enough.



RUNWAY: Givenchy Haute Couture FW18

Steven Meisel is tapped by Clare Waight Keller for her first campaign for Givenchy featuring Piero Mendez, Lucas Estievenart, and Hamid Khodja in a glass-shattering campaign full of symbolism, styled by Joe McKenna.





CAMPAIGN: Givenchy SS18

After breaking out of the Tisci-mold with a much lauded haute couture collection, Clare Waight Keller's first ready to wear collection for Givenchy showed a trickled down aesthetic from that collection shown in January. For men, this meant dark and romantic clothes with strong silhouettes and touches of rock sensibility like an animal print jacket or leather pants or faux-fur jacket, speaking of the fur at Givenchy, it's all fake fur, so kudos to Keller for helping to end fashion's addiction to the murder of animals no longer de rigueur.




RUNWAY: Givenchy FW18

Givenchy's new creative director Clare Waight Keller debuts her first couture collection for the storied fashion house. In this debut, she included four men's looks, striking in its workmanship, with hand-beaded fringe, python pants, latex coat, and a surprisingly taut silhouette. It's hard to determine the route which Keller's menswear for Givenchy will go but this small hint at what's to come (since couture ideas tend to trickle down to pret-a-porter) is convincing.



RUNWAY: Givenchy Haute Couture SS18

Utility and function are paramount in Givenchy's diffusion line, G, with fur trimmed anoraks, bucket hats and joggers completing the looks as seen in the label's FW17 campaign, featuring Antoine Lorvo.



CAMPAIGN: G Givenchy FW17

If you've been living under a rock, then the noticeable change in design and aesthetic at Givenchy might come as a shock to you. However, it was big news when Givenchy's 12-year long designer Riccardo Tisci resigned (and still technically on sabbatical) and a few months later, British designer Clare Waight Keller was appointed to Tisci's old position. So, who is Ms. Waight Keller? She started her career at Calvin Klein (designing womenswear) then moved rival NY label Ralph Lauren (designing menswear) then moving across the pond to join Gucci (women's), then Pringle of Scotland (men's & women's) then finally landing at Chloe. She clearly has plenty of experience designing for men. But as evidenced by her debut here, womenswear is her forte; though that's not say the menswear was bad. The silhouettes were trim with strong shoulders, akin to Dior Homme under Hedi Slimane, whose influence in the way men dress is still profound. These are clothes that will sell because they look good and men still love to dress in skinny jeans while pairing them with opulent jackets. However, that je ne sai quoi that Tisci's menswear had eludes Givenchy's new designer. At least for now.



RUNWAY: Givenchy SS18

Riccardo Tisci has long looked to America for inspiration for his collections: stars, stripes and Americana have consistently popped up in Givenchy's collections. So what does the Italian designer do for FW17 when Givenchy's show time happened to coincide the Inauguration of America's new president, one who got less votes from The People and, by his own admission, was aided by the help of a foreign, hostile nation? Tisci stayed positive and looked at those who have been disadvantaged the most, especially in the last two years during an election process that seemed unending. There were nods to Native Americans, racial minorities, LGBTQ and, of course, powerful women as evidenced from the strong SS17 couture collection that was shown at the end of the show and has now become a tradition on this runway.

Boldly striped shirts and Totem pole faced knits added a whimsical air to the collection while colorful toggles on a coat resembled rainbows while stripes and a starry knit rounded out the collection that was intentionally lighter in tone, not as heavy and brooding as collections past. Stay positive, says Tisci, who may or may not positively leave Givenchy and join Versace, should the latter's IPO come to fruition.



RUNWAY: Givenchy FW17

Victor Perr strikes a pose in the desert for a serene and sporty SS17 campaign story for venerable fashion house, Givenchy, shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott and styled by Carine Roitfeld.

CAMPAIGN: Givenchy SS17

Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci has long been fascinated with American culture, his use of stars and stripes has been seen on many of his collections for the Parisian label. However, for SS17, it was American currency that took center stage. The greenback was featured on many of the shirts, jackets and coats seen throughout the collection, as well as the emblematic third eye, seen also in American currency but also a symbol for the secret society the Illuminati, something anyone who's ever read a Dan Brown book may have heard of. Was this a nod to them? An acknowledgement of the dominance of the American dollar in fashion and the world? Maybe. Possibly. But according to the designer himself, the collection was more about trying to get past the influence of money and seeing things for their real value rather than what the stated value says it's worth. It's an interesting proposition, especially coming from an industry whose wears are run into the four figures for a backpack or shoes.



RUNWAY: Givenchy SS17

After showing Givenchy's SS16 collection in New York last year, Riccardo Tisci's admiration and adoration of America has not ebbed. In fact, he doubled down on his fascination of American culture and history with a cowboy-inspired collection full of fringe, cowboy boots and embellished shirts. Tailoring was masculine and strong with luxe detailing and fabrications. The bubblegum pink showspace was also a bit of a headturner, like some many of the couture gowns female models wore in complement to the menswear.




RUNWAY: Givenchy FW16

The Givenchy team traveled to New York to celebrate the opening of the label's NYC store but also to showcase Riccardo Tisci's latest collection for the Paris-based label. For SS16, the pared-back collection was full of Tisci classics, from sharp tuxedo tailoring to luxe and hard-edged detailing, from a leather pocket here, a dainty lace top there and everything in between. It was a tour-de-force outing for the Italian designer.



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RUNWAY: Givenchy SS16

Last season, Givenchy showed a dark and romantic collection, full of couture-level tailoring for men was flushed with lightness for SS16. In additional, there was actual couture on hand, worn by muses of the designer, Riccardo Tisci, including Mariacarla Boscono and the incomparable Naomi Campbell. As for the men, the collection's print du-jour was quite somber, it was Jesus Christ at the crucification. This harrowing image was plastered onto knits, shorts, and everything in between. The rest of the collection, save for the dazzling and sparkly finale, was equally somber, focusing on exquisite tailoring and only one or two accessories, including an oversized key necklace worn by many a model. Americana was also featured heavily with stars and stripes seen through the collection. These hyper masculine men, including the Sampaio twins who've seen to have lost their shirts, are men who've been hardened by prison, whether a mental or physical one. Tisci's collections are always quite personal, if last season was a scarlet letter, this season is a sobering reminder of life's ups and downs.



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RUNWAY: Givenchy SS16

Two weeks before Paris-based label Givenchy is slated to showcase its Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Riccardo Tisci and his atelier debuted their Pre-Spring 2016 lookbook, featuring Filip Hrivnak. Military influences and streamlined silhouette reigned supreme while digital patterns hinted at what we'll surely see more of at Givenchy's next runway show.



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Givenchy PSS16e Givenchy PSS16f Givenchy PSS16g Givenchy PSS16h

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LOOKBOOK: Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016