RUNWAY: Mugler SS12

Before we get to the review, we wanted to point out one thing. People seem to be confused regarding Nicola Formichetti's role at Mugler. He is the Creative Director of both mens and womens, which means that he himself doesn't design the collection, he merely states his vision and the atelier, headed by the designer, carries out his vision. For menswear, that design is Romain Kremer, who took the finale bow with Nicola. We felt that the distinction between designer and Nicola's role had to be addressed.

For Spring/Summer 2012, Formichetti and Kremer presented a collection that was based on ancient societies masculine ideal: Adonis. That could be clearly seen in the clothes, and by SS12's campaign model, Travis Cannata. However, the collection, which is a good, was sullied by inane advertising and "buzz" regarding Formichetti's SS12 campaign video, which will be released in two formats: a PG-13 version and another that will be launched on amateur porn site, xTube, tomorrow.

Nicola Formichetti made a name for himself by being Lady Gaga's stylist, responsible for her outlandish outfits that create so much buzz, it is helped propel her to the top of the music world. That same envelope-pushing has hindered Mugler, taking the focus away from the clothes, which are well done. Kremer's tailoring skills can clearly be seen in the suits and the strong silhouettes. Our gripe with Mugler is put into words best by an unnamed editor who was overheard saying the following after the SS12 show: "Mugler is becoming like Taylor Momsen, trying so hard to be edgy that it's a collective yawn."