Instead of a runway show, Iceberg showcased its latest collection in an intimate presentation that highlighted an intellectual vibe, not just from the books scattered haphazardly throughout the showspace but also in the clothes. Knits came in all shapes and sizes, from slim cut and macraméd to relaxed and striped or even a knitted jacket; all looks were paired with cropped trousers and sandals. The collection gave a collegiate vibe, like these handsome young men were the chicest dressed students at library.
Ralph Lauren's most luxurious label, Purple Label, gets a sporty makeover as the more sport-minded label, Black Label, gets folded into the former. For SS16, there were brightly colored trousers from lemon hues to emerald, while more demure offerings including a plethora of high end fabrics like cashmere and alligator skinned jackets. The combination of sport and tailoring worked seamlessly here, with lots of denim and denim-esque fabrics that belies the true luxe fabrics and techniques used to create them. There were, of course, plenty of tailoring options but these outfits, unlike the sportswear, were timeless and less "fashion"-y.
Tod's hired Italian designer Andrea Incontri to head up its fashion offerings and the designer's unique eye for fashion was present in Tod's Spring/Summer 2016 collection, from sharply tailored safari jackets, dégradé leather jackets and top-stitched coats.
As Marc Jacobs slowly edges closer to an IPO, changes are afoot at the New York-based label. Firstly, the lower price line is being folded into the main line. Now, the label's menswear designer Karl Aberg's job is to combine the quirky but ultra-cool Marc Jacobs line and create a duality between it and the sportier, more youthful Marc by Marc Jacobs line. For SS16, he succeeded in creating sporty designs and combining it with luxe materials to create deceptively casual but luxurious offerings, all with a flush of Asian-inspired detailing.
The men (and women) who can afford Brunello Cucinelli's designs spend plenty of time luxuriating in the best of everything, including sharp and luxe designs. The Italian designer continues to work to create a symbiotic collection that properly balances luxury and utility without compromise. Here, there were ultra lightweight fabrics, sharply tailored trousers, cool jackets and a litany of layering options like leather or suede vests.
Athleticism has invaded the wardrobes of men and women around the world and Bally harnesses that activity- and utility-minded way of dressing with a chic marriage of athleticism and dandyism. Rugged boots, stretchy pants, and sharp European tailoring all melded together to create a collection that's likely to appeal to a large number of men, while a great variation of shoes is sure to continue to drive Bally-aficionados to the cash registers.
Architectural designs from Balenciaga injected formality to the label which has been trending more sporty and athletic since Alexander Wang took over the reigns. There were structured jackets, slim and streamlined tailoring, as well as a myriad of very chic military-inspired coats, like an olive trench and a snakeskin bomber.
There's been a regime change at Carven and the differences between the new men's director and the former are noticeable. Graphic and arty patterns were spread out throughout the laid back collection, putting a new spin on the quirky and youthful aesthetic that Carven has etched out for itself. Elements of army surplus added a new dimension while a stronger focus on accessories showed the label's possible new strategy to break into new, and wider, markets.
Paul & Joe's latest collection was an ode to a summer's day, floral applique and butterfly motifs littered the sporty collection while dressier options were relaxed, offered a nice balance between the austere and fluid tailoring that's becoming a little divisive in menswear nowadays.