Architecture, texture and utility combined into a symbiotic collection of pieces at Edmund Ooi's FW16 presentation. Geometric patterns on knits and shirts signaled a futuristic tone while technical fabrics and volume reinforced the idea. The collection's strongest pieces were the outerwear like a sharply cut Perfecto or a cropped and textured peacoat.



RUNWAY: Edmund Ooi FW16

Grit and genderless fashion were on display at Chapter's FW16 collection. There were plays on menswear staples like the requisite business trouser but this time with its crotch dropped, as well as new takes on overcoats, with raglan sleeves.



RUNWAY: Chapter FW16

Rihanna is now Puma's creative director. The singer showcased her first collection for the athletic label during NYFW, surreptitiously a day after Kanye West showed off his collection in collaboration with Adidas. This collection's Fenty name comes from Rihanna's surname and it had all the attitude, sex and appeal of the singer herself. The handful of men's looks teetered on dystopian-warrior chic, with a spattering of luxe from a faux-fur coat, while athleisure was naturally a strong focus with track pants and jackets and oversized utility coats rounding out her freshman effort.



RUNWAY: Fenty x Puma FW16

The scene at Kanye West's show/presentation/album listening party was chaotic and often times disorganized. There were roughly 20,000 people in attendance, most of whom were lay people with no formal ties to fashion or NYFW. They were there to participate in a cultural moment. The music was well received, if not controversial with a lyric about one of Kanye's former adversaries.

The clothes were more of the same from prior seasons: destroyed and overpriced. The key pieces that sell out quickest are the footwear which played on some of the most popular styles of seasons past. The clothes were, unsurprisingly, the least entertaining part of the extravaganza. The commentary was far more powerful, think refugee in tattered clothes, possibly signaling the refugee crisis in Europe. Knowing all this, people still came out to see the show and paid a lot of money to be a part of it and will likely pay a lot more to own some of the pieces. It's undeniable that there is a fascination and a demand for Yeezy. In the end, no one really came into the show thinking it would be a huge revelation in fashion but instead, as a showman, West delivered.



RUNWAY: Yeezy Season 3

Jazz and music played a strong role in David Hart's soulful FW16 collection. Trumpets and various horns accompanied many of the models as they wore collegiate inspired fashions, with a strong emphasis on the classic tailoring; the collection was suave and debonair.



RUNWAY: David Hart FW16

Classic tailoring, mix with sporty elements, and masculine silhouettes were on offer at Hickey Freeman's suit-heavy FW16 presentation.



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(photos via)

RUNWAY: Hickey Freeman FW16

Hedi Slimane's tenure at Saint Laurent has been fraught with rumors, gossip and spectacle. When 2016 hit, rumors in Paris started swirling that he was on his way out the door then he cancelled Saint Laurent's men's FW16 show in Paris. The rumors reached a fever pitch at that point. It was eventually announced that Saint Laurent would show not in Paris, or New York, but in Los Angeles, where Slimane has lived since departing Dior Homme nearly a decade ago. The show, at LA's iconic Palladium, was billed all-Hedi, meaning that the press-shy designer's creations would be the focus and he was not leaving (yet). This could be a turning point in the label's future, bypassing the European shows and the newly formed NYFWM to show in Los Angeles, to appease Slimane.

When the lights dimmed at the Palladium, just days before the Grammy's, the collection was a revelation in chic, albeit in super slim proportions. Slimane revived Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture, with two new couture ateliers, one of them focusing on tailoring. Though this collection is undoubtedly ready to wear, the influences of YSL couture showed here with a sophisticated collection full of opulence, take the gold mink coat or the lush embroidery on a trim jacket. After the kerfuffle over the label's name change, the banning of certain journalists, and the sometimes inability of the designer to take criticism, this collection in LA is Slimane's best argument for why he deserves to stay at Saint Laurent and why Kering, its parent company, should acquiesce to the designer's wants.



RUNWAY: Saint Laurent FW16

Tailored suits and sportswear with a flare for fur and other luxe fabrications was the crux of Brioni's FW16 collection. Classic menswear fabrics like windowpane and herringbone proliferated the moody collection while sporty elements gave the expansive collection a youthful air, thanks in part to the slightly oversized coats, some with fur trim. Other elements, like the removable hood and bib, just did not work.



RUNWAY: Brioni FW16

There was something off about Orley and that's how the trio of designers behind the label quite like it. Every look seemed off kilter: a knit too shrunken, pants too short, or jackets that looked beaten up in the wash. The label's FW16 was interesting in its embrace of things that are different. The knitwork was quite sublime while the men's and womenswear collections felt genderless without being so obtuse about it, an impressive feat for the fairly new label.



RUNWAY: Orley FW16