See the full collection here.

See the full collection here.

See the full collection here.

Rei Kawakubo created a strong, slightly subversive, collection for Comme des Garcons SS13. Kawakubo's high concept collections always stun and this was no different. Camouflage opened the show then quickly revealed a collection full of long coats, some with great prints and patterns on them while others were full of texture and character. In the end, Kawakubo showed a powerful and rebellious collection rife with creativity.

Now that Bill Gaytten has officially been relieved of the daunting duties at Christian Dior womenswear and couture, he can know focus all his creative energy at John Galliano. That was apparent in this succinct, cohesive collection. Inspired by the sky, Gaytten offered a well-edited collection of military-inspired looks with slight nods to the Galliano house's heritage and history, without fully mimicking the work of the befallen designer whose name appears on the label. Though the odd neckwear (a lobster?) still confuses a bit.

Riccardo Tisci's hard edged collections for Givenchy softened a bit for SS13. Hard, angular cuts were shown but were softened with a lighter color palette and series of beautifully soft prints, some creating wonderful trompe-l'œil effects; while fabrications were couture-quality. Tunics were shown, hinting at a religious aspect, a constant for Tisci, and those were juxtaposed with transparent layers that a bit sexy, a bit scandalous and functional in the hot summer months.

Breaking away from his usual aesthetic, Kris Van Assche offered trousers with pleats, a difficult look to pull off, evidenced by the look on the models. However, the collection was a departure that worked for the most part. A simple color palette of soft neutrals helped to focus the eye on the clothes rather than busy prints or patterns; instead, the tailoring was front and center.