A lighter, more fluid collection was what Damir Doma sent down the runway. The collection felt a bit forced at times, like some of the leather outerwear mixed with wide trousers. Though, as a whole, the collection felt like a new direction for the brand and the striped looks were quite fetching, with their sexy, silky appeal.
RUNWAY: Damir Doma SS13
Launching a runway show after so many years off the show schedule, Pierre Cardin showed a superfluous amount of clothing for SS13, so much so, the audience felt flustered with all the imagery. The collection was a mix of bad references and lacked direction. It oddly felt like the re-launch of another French house a few seasons ago with a rather famous creative director. Unfortunately, this collection didn't even have that.
RUNWAY: Pierre Cardin SS13
Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz took a darker, more sinister turn for Lanvin's SS13 collection. High-waisted pants were seen and mixed with motorcycle jackets and oversized outerwear. The rebellious tones of the collection were felt with its fabric choice, like leather, either calf or exotic skins. The collection like a rebellion from Lanvin's previous collections, which were much softer, dandy-er and a bit more flamboyant, whereas this collection was masculine and hard-edged.
RUNWAY: Lanvin SS13
Spring/Summer 2013 was a strong showing from the Korean brand Wooyoungmi. Sharp tailoring was combined with floral prints that were masculine but appeals to a man's dandy side. A sleek silhouette was favored and often times mixed with a strong, masculine top via broad shoulders seen on knits and outerwear, frame the upper body in a v-shape. Overall, the collection was solid; and a congratulations goes out to the house which just celebrated its 10th anniversary.
RUNWAY: Wooyoungmi SS13
Defining Kris Van Assche's SS13 collection for Dior Homme as a "new look" for the house might be a bit sacrilegious for the house, especially when Christian Dior's "New Look" was what drastically changed womenswear, and fashion as a whole, so many decades ago. But the collection he showed today in Paris was a new direction for the brand: sportier, younger and, if truth be told, more wearable outside of high fashion editorial pages. Square suits were soft and lean while drawstring outerwear was a nod to sportswear. A simple color palette, straying on the dark side, was highlighted by trim in brighter colors like gold and gold. Transparency was also heavily featured. In all, it was a very strong collection for Van Assche, much lighter and less constrained than previous offerings, a big coup for the house and for the designer.
RUNWAY: Dior Homme SS13
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