Xander Zhou's namesake collection proffered a Fall/Winter collection that drew upon Chinese iconography and traditional Chinese clothing mixed with bits of futurism and some influence from the West, mostly in the form of dress shirts, ties and suit separates.

Uniformed men in an office space provided the starting point for Chinese designer Xander Zhou's SS18 collection which offered a subversive take on business casual. A freed nipple and rakish proportions are just two examples of Zhou's upended work wear-inspired collection.

What sort of response will designers showing in London have to Brexit? It is clearly too early to make a call but if Xander Zhou's subversive take on blue collar attire and military tailoring - featuring denim and his signature play on proportions and fit - is any indication, the mood may be bleak. Zhou's latest outing did offer some interesting dichotomies from the messy collegiate looks in the beginning to the jumpsuit at the end, this collection seemed to be focused on the youth of London, their views moving from optimism towards the future to one of uncertainty and a need for armor.

Studs, leather and a lot of attitude were key elements of Xander Zhou's SS17 collection. The Chinese designer has continued his journey of retooling menswear and recreating something new, unique and experimental. For this collection, a unisex or genderless one, this was seen in the new silhouettes seen on a coat or the dress-vs-undressed looks that challenged social norms.

Diversity on and off the runway was what Xander Zhou aimed for in his FW16 collection.  A mashup of ideas, fabrics, and proportions lent for an eclectic collection with some great outerwear for the every-man and for the man who likes to stand out, like those sharp shouldered military jackets. Between some of the show-y pieces were some excellent pieces like an austere blouson with rounded shoulders or any of the trenches seen through, in velvet or classic cotton. Femininity also was an influence here, from the frilly shirts worn underneath to the pointed boots that could easily be worn by either sex but gave a sleek and sexy silhouette on the bottom. In the end, the message was: be yourself.

Chinese designer Xander Zhou seemed to be inspired by The Metropolitan Museum's new exhibit called China: Through the Looking Glass. In season's past, Zhou has opted to look to Western cultures for inspiration but for SS16, he went back to his roots and reinterpreted what he sees as modern Chinese culture, through a Chinese designer. This is important mostly because fashion rarely allows the general public to see a certain culture through the eyes of its citizens. In fashion, it's usually European or American designers interpreting Chinese culture or African culture. Not here. Zhou offered a stunning take on Chinese iconography, seen on intricately embroidered tops; other notable pieces included chic biker jackets with applique flowers and elegant silken robes. All of it done with zero cultural appropriation, well done.

As the first model walked onto Xander Zhou's runway, the biggest surprise was not the oversized shirt, virtually falling off the model's body but the cowboy boots he wore. That was just the start. What followed was a futuristic look at cowboys and the American Southwest, though much more polished - in fashion terms- than, say, Firefly, a defunct TV series based on the idea of futuristic cowboys, not unlike this show's inspiration. Beside the cowboy boots, there were Native American symbols, fringe and even coats that had spots like a cow. There were one eyed glasses that looked like crosshairs of a gun and plenty of fitted clothes, a big break from Zhou's play on proportion. In the end, the quirky references and juxtaposition of the past and the future felt too literal, even if the clothes were far more wearable than in previous showings.

Since presenting at LCM and getting the backing of GQ China, Xander Zhou has played with proportions to reach glorious heights and though boxy coats and short shorts, wide trousers and offbeat tops were still present, for SS15, the highlight were the textures he showcased. Technical fabrics and an outer space theme take this collection to literal new heights. A sleeveless silver-gold top with a half zip looked like something made out of a recycled part of a space craft while a peppered polo gave the impression of looking down at a new planet from high above. Mix in a bit of sport like ribbed overalls and a skateboard here and there to make us think that maybe this new world Zhou is exploring isn't so different from our own.

Chinese designer Xander Zhou's play on fit and proportion came in the form of extra long scarves and voluminous trousers for FW14. Though his vision of the modern man has shifted from an austere collection in SS14 to a more subdued take on classic English dressing, with heavy subversive undertones. Interestingly, the furry shoes were reminiscent of a certain Parisian womenswear label that showed something similar last season. Meanwhile, the bow detailing seen on the outerwear was quite dandy and youthful, which are two adjectives that seem to succinctly describe the collection.

See the full collection here.

After FW13's stunning show, Xander Zhou returns to continue playing with proportion for SS14 with a (relatively) minimalist collection. This collection not only played on proportion but also fit, texture and various folds, signaling an Asian inspiration. We thought the coats with social media prints were clever while also sending a message ("Edit My Profile"). Meanwhile, his use of various techniques to create a gender bending silhouette showed that Zhou's design process might be at a higher level than other designers who are at the same level of experience.