Liza Minnelli sang at the Rainbow Room in New York City as Dolce&Gabbana presented their handmade, ultra-expensive Alta Sartoria (high tailoring in Italian) Spring/Summer 2018 collection. There were subtle and overt references to the city that never sleeps, from art deco inspiration to bedazzled baseball jerseys, because, why not? The life of excess is where the two Italian designers live, being coy isn't there thing, and because of this, the reactions are often quite divisive, the same goes for the two personalities are come up with audacious looks like a Spring/Summer fur coat matched with pink sequined suit with matching loafers. Many of these looks are unattainable to most people because of their eye-watering prices but much like couture, it's less about accessibility and more about getting people talking and ultimately, that's how Dolce and Gabbana have always operated.

Burberry's Spring/Summer 2018 collection is quite bittersweet. It was Christopher Bailey's final collection for the iconic British label so it was emotional in that way; he also  re-issued of some his most iconic pieces like that oversized shearling coat and brought back the Burberry plaid which he shied away from for so many years, this time with a new touch: rainbow colors. After 17 years at Burberry, Bailey has grown as a designer and an individual and during that time, he's gotten married to a man, something Bailey when he first started at Burberry would not have thought legally possible. In addition to the rainbow colors on the plaid, rainbows appeared on everything else from puffers to the Burberry name on tracksuits; the collection at times felt very celebratory. There was a lot of nostalgia within the collection and why wouldn't there be since this is Bailey's swansong? That being said, the other part of the bittersweet feeling of this collection highlighted that it truly is time for Bailey to go. Fashion has changed and this collection, while exuberant, felt off and possibly trying too hard to be like a certain Florentine label whose sales have skyrocketed since the appointment of its new creative director and in that aspect, it failed.

Givenchy's new creative director Clare Waight Keller debuts her first couture collection for the storied fashion house. In this debut, she included four men's looks, striking in its workmanship, with hand-beaded fringe, python pants, latex coat, and a surprisingly taut silhouette. It's hard to determine the route which Keller's menswear for Givenchy will go but this small hint at what's to come (since couture ideas tend to trickle down to pret-a-porter) is convincing.

When appointed to helm Calvin Klein, Raf Simons demanded to be overseer of the entire empire, not just the runway label. It is then no wonder why Calvin Klein Jeans' SS18 collections is so in-line with Simons' SS18 collection for the runway line, the mouthful Calvin Klein 205W39NYC. This collection for Jeans is, unsurprisingly, heavy on denim but resplendent in its subtle and minimalist aesthetics while light color blocking seen on tanks and shirts made for streamlined designs.

If you've been living under a rock, then the noticeable change in design and aesthetic at Givenchy might come as a shock to you. However, it was big news when Givenchy's 12-year long designer Riccardo Tisci resigned (and still technically on sabbatical) and a few months later, British designer Clare Waight Keller was appointed to Tisci's old position. So, who is Ms. Waight Keller? She started her career at Calvin Klein (designing womenswear) then moved rival NY label Ralph Lauren (designing menswear) then moving across the pond to join Gucci (women's), then Pringle of Scotland (men's & women's) then finally landing at Chloe. She clearly has plenty of experience designing for men. But as evidenced by her debut here, womenswear is her forte; though that's not say the menswear was bad. The silhouettes were trim with strong shoulders, akin to Dior Homme under Hedi Slimane, whose influence in the way men dress is still profound. These are clothes that will sell because they look good and men still love to dress in skinny jeans while pairing them with opulent jackets. However, that je ne sai quoi that Tisci's menswear had eludes Givenchy's new designer. At least for now.

Eschewing New York for the city of light, Gypsy Sport showed its latest collection in the famed Place de la Republique in Paris and the result could succinctly summarized by a word on a tee: coexist. The models who walked were typical Parisians: carrying baguettes home for dinner, getting ready to go out on a Friday night and so on but their clothes spoke volumes, from a Colin Kaepernick football jersey to mesh tops, this collection felt like it about justice and freedom, respectively. It was a great collection, full stop.

In a surprise move, Isabel Marant debuted a small men's collection during her SS18 show in Paris. The result was quite good for the designer's first foray into menswear. The two handful or so of men's looks complemented the womenswear with its natural tones, as well as its sleek and sexy layers like deeply cut tanks over slouchy jackets or oversized knits, paired with straight legged pants, whether joggers or denim.

A somber feeling wafted over Saint Laurent's SS18 show: one of its founders, Pierre Berge, had died a few weeks ago. This was the first show wherein neither of its founders, Berge or the namesake designer, were present. What better way to honor Berge and his dedication to Yves Saint Laurent, the man and the maison, than to show a collection that highlighted its glorious and debaucherous past? For the men's collection, Anthony Vacarello sent out a sleeper hit with lots of luxe detailing from a subtle sequined blouson to lushly embroidered jackets to silky animal print tops. At first glance, the clothes can seem plain, even boring, but upon closer inspection, the detail and fabrics shine through, even among all the black-on-black tones.

Lacoste is one of the labels that moved its runway show from New York to Paris this season and it seems right since Lacoste is a French label, founded by famed tennis player Rene Lacoste. For the SS18 collection, there was an undoubted retro vibe to the collection, accented by mustached models in slouchy tracksuits, white tees, and pristine kicks.

Bottega Veneta is one of many labels choosing to combine its men's and women's collection and Tomas Maier is one of the few designers who designs them so that both are are complementary to one another. There were bold color combinations here, many of which were accented by embellishment from grommets to rivets while fabric choice was, of course, quite luxe from suede to leather. There was an American tinge to the collection, part Miami/Cuba, part American southwest and it seemed smart to convey the idea of traveling without being so overt that, yes, humans are traveling more and more and further away now, so why not offer clothes in the same season to suit different itineraries?

Jil Sander, the label, is back with a new creative team: husband and wife Luke and Lucie Meier. Both have extensive careers in fashion but they've never worked together professionally before. Their debut collection, combining women's and men's together, was heavy on ethereal layers on pin thin models, their bodies long and slender to help accentuate the narrow silhouettes the label is known for. There were also some macrame knits and minimalist suits to round out the collection.

A trio of men's looks complemented Giorgio Armani's SS18 womenswear show today during Milan Fashion Week; the full SS18 men's collection can be seen here.

A handful of monochromatic men's look appeared at Joseph's SS18 womenswear show, shown during London Fashion Week. The full men's collection can be seen here.

Alessandro Michele's expansive collections for Gucci run the gamut between elaborate and extravagant clothing like a sequined cape with fur to the kitschy like overalls with musical note patches. For SS18, the scene was set: a rave among Roman ruins and the result was strong on 80s references from the bold tailoring to eyewear that looked like bedazzled View-Masters. Michele's seemingly endless display of products is one of the reasons why Gucci has become Kering's most important brand add strong sales and a loyal fanbase and it's no wonder Gucci does not need to discount their offerings - they just sell, even at their exorbitant prices, for example $800 for a tee.

Julien Macdonald's men's collection is still in its infancy but because the designer himself has made a name for himself for creating sexy, rock-inspired womenswear, his men's collection trends along the same lines. There were opulently sequined shirts, studded tops, and skinny bottoms with sturdy lace-up boots that completed each look's rock 'n' roll look.

What a confusing time it is in fashion. American labels such as Tommy Hilfiger are showing a collection inspired by American culture in London during the SS18 show season but showing a FW17 collection. All the while collaborating with a supermodel. What of Hilfiger's FW17 then? It was musically inclined and seemed far more rooted in the Seattle grunge era of the 1990s than anywhere, or any time, else. Hilfiger's signature plaid patterns were torn and reassembled to make grungy shirts, as well as on all-plaid puffers or just patched on to one. The strongest pieces in the collection were the coats, especially an oversized military overcoat, which belied the inspiration and felt the most modern.

At any given time, there seems to be a multitude of fashion weeks concurrently happening. Madrid Fashion Week coincides with the end and beginning of New York Fashion Week and London Fashion Week, respectively. This is partly why it does not get much press outside of Spain. However, a name that some fashion lovers might recognize is Palomo Spain, known for its gender fluidity and embrace of the non-binary. The premise of the SS18 collection was based on the eclectic mix of people who walk through the lobby of a grand hotel and that can be seen from the bellboys who help these cocktail-dress wearing patrons up to their rooms, some complementing their looks with jewels or an ornate shawl or bag while a collaboration with Converse provided a mass-market opportunity for Palomo's fans to get a piece of the brand without breaking the bank with a full on gown.

Nicola Formichetti showed his label Nicopanda during London Fashion Week and the result was goth princess meets pop art prints. It's interesting how some seem to think that this - panda prints on basic layers like hoodies and compression shorts - is somehow fashion. If it is, then the industry should be worried.

Skateboard culture got a slight revamp at Calvin Luo. The typical elongated proportions favored by skaters got an update via chunky mesh layers and a bit of dandy, thanks to iridescent fabrics.

Donatella Versace's family name has been in the news in the past year or so, from the upcoming miniseries about her beloved brother to the rumors of a possible IPO or appointment of a new men's and women's designer. However, Donatella marched forward with a youthful collection for Versus Versace, utilizing denim, plaid and a dash of youthful abandon and sex appeal to cap off a beguiling collection, even though the bucket hats were less than appealing.