Rick Owens new preferred show space is the expansive Palais de Tokyo building and Owens has offered up some really great collections here and save for the punk-inspired platform footwear, this collection was another. It was likely Owens's most personal, drawing from his own childhood, with references to his mother's Mexican roots and his father's work with the United Farm Workers union. There was plenty to like in this collection from the deep-v tops to the structural motifs seen on a trench to the vibrant hues of marigold and sequined straw.

Remember when Rick Owens using blue was a monumental moment? Well, thing have certainly changed and it was palpable in this colorful collection from Owens. The collection was also much more rock-infused than his prior outings though still quite high concept, like those platforms sneakers! It's hard to not let the color palette at an Owens collection go without mention and so the deep oranges, reds and browns that paraded down the runway had a strong effect while the multitude of shades of black and white offered something familiar. In all, it was an evolutionary step forward for Owens and considering many of his past offerings have dipped heavily in the dystopian, it was a welcome change.

Bare bones design and bared bones were on display at Rick Owens' FW18 collection that offered plenty of concept: there were dystopic clothes that seemed like they were woven from different pieces, pants so high they nearly reached the chest and plenty of raw fabrics, creating a milieu around the wearer, like one might see on a cartoon after a dust-up. There were, of course, some great austerely tailored coats towards the end but the collection trended towards entropic designs, with purposeful haphazard designs, the equivalent of a fashion oxymoron.

A new ice age is upon us, according to Rick Owens. His dystopic Spring/Summer 2018 collection had all his hallmarks with strong references to hunters and gathers of a millenia-past. Voluminous bags attached to the hip are requisite while in search of food and/or prey while bare chests revealed the tiny frames of the models. Meanwhile, his tailored offerings were shrunken on top and voluminous on the bottom, some so lightweight, they were see through. Is global warming real? Has humanity created a situation where cataclysmic weather will usher in a new ice age? Yes and Rick Owens has a collection to offer for when the day comes when we can't try to stop or, at least, slow it down.

Rick Owens' ghostly Fall/Winter 2017 collection showed bulbous puffers wrapped around the models while raw-edged clothes, some floor length, is a stark contrast from Owens' usual austere tailoring and aesthetic. This is just the latest evolution for the Rick Owens aesthetic. After all, not too long ago, his use of color was strictly constrained between black, white and grey.

Remember when Rick Owens did not utilize colors that weren't in a shade of black or white? Those days are gone, for SS17, there were shades of yellow, orange and pink to brighten up the fluid designs the California-born designer proffered.

Gender neutral clothes went to the extreme at Rick Owens' FW16 collection. The austere designs were exploding with drapes, furs, and other fabrics. The volume and grandiose silhouettes was new for Owens, as were some of the saturated hues he used. Puffers were worn backward to create a bulbous silhouette on a thin model while fur coats were paired with fur shirts and pants, or were they skirts? Nevertheless, the effect was almost Neolithic. There were also models in ghost face make up and were reminiscent of the mask that Jason Voorhees wore while white drips on black coats looked like some sort of alien blood. Owens' disparate inspirations had one thing in common: they were all haunting.

Last season, Rick Owens caused a stir with a few male appendages hanging out of his designs. This season, there was a similar stir caused but it was not a planned part of the show. Towards the end of the show, a model went rogue and pulled out a crumpled sign that read "Please Kill Angela Markel...Not". The designer was not amused and has emphatically stated it was not a sanctioned political statement.

Nevertheless, Owens is sure to garner a few extra mentions regarding his SS16 collection, which was considerably lighter and more romantic than ever before. Aside from the hood made of hair that adorned some of the models, the clothes looked freeing, with draped fabrics added on to create an almost Grecian affect. There were also lighter and brighter colors like mint and tangerine. Hoof boots are a thing of the past now and instead, there were heavy galosh-like boots with oversized pull tabs on the sides. In the end, it is a shame that most of the coverage will center around that model because his latest collection felt fresh and new.

See the full collection here.

Rick Owens hinted in the show notes that his FW15 collection would be "primal". However, the audience was aghast to find that this didn't translate to animal prints or Neanderthal-inspired garb, instead, there it was: a model's penis hanging out, sans underwear, under a tunic.

This "break the internet" moment is quite in line with the collection's narrative of mystery and primal instinct, rather than just a ploy to get people talking - though it did just that. Owens literally lifted the mystery off what lay under the clothes we pay hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. What's even better is that the collection was actually quite good: look at the outerwear, wearable with great fabrics like a slick raincoat or any a peacoat made from Berber blankets. Knits were exaggerated, like the Internet's reaction this and most things, while neoprene hoodies and jackets were futuristic and gave an aura of armor or protection.

When Rick Owens showed a bit of color a few season ago, it was the first time he had done so and it was a "revelation" to long time fans and watchers. Fast forward to today's colorful show, with salmon, mustard, gold and more and it was like he had been using these colors all along; this was all juxtaposed with a strong alien-cum-tribal element. Signature looks from Owens were still present but there was a newness that came through and not just because he used colors not seen on the greyscale, the silhouettes were looser, the draping felt less rigid (almost feminine) and the use of treated denim gave the collection a casual feel even amongst the more experimental looks.

See the full collection here.