For Carol Lim and Humberto Leon's swan song at Kenzo, they returned to a familiar theme: water. This Spring/Summer 2020 collection was undoubtedly bittersweet and seemed to hark back on their tenure at Kenzo, which in fashion years is quite an eternity with designers leaving their posts within two-to-three years. For this final collection, there were neoprene shorts, chunky mesh tees and slouchy track jackets to round out the sporty and athletic collection.

Kenzo's latest collection took us on a trip, both figuratively and literally. Up first are the trippy, hallucinogenic patterns seen on coats while a hiking-cum-adventure theme emerged via hiking boots and utilitarian layers. A finale of hot pink pieces were bold for anyone, men or women alike, and was the only hiccup in the collection - though, this is fashion and it should be fun so it wasn't that big of one.

Kenzo, under Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, has never shied away from boldness, whether it was a flurry of patches over patterns or this collection's bright neon colors. If one's desire was quiet luxury, this is not the house for them and that's not what the two designers offered. Instead there was a wide range of colors and patterns. Nevertheless, the jaunty colors with the tailor-centric clothes was another signal that sports-cum-athleticwear is losing its appeal with those who - traditionally - set the trends.

Kenzo tapped into its East Asian roots for its Fall/Winter 2018 collection featuring cherry blossom motifs, seen as embroidery on a minimalist top or on a thin see-through shirt. There were also dragon motifs seen on the accessories and on some tees that had an 80s vibe. Also sporting an 80s vibe were the wide shouldered jackets towards the ends and the slink and iridescent garments. Animal pattern also was seen on collars, trenchcoats and on two full length fur coats, one was even a lime-ish green. Kenzo's legacy time slot means it's the last show during Paris Fashion Week and with that kind of slot, it puts pressure on the label and it seems this season, it disappointed with a collection that looked like a combination of many collections...but from other labels.

There have been many runway shows that utilize a cast that's all one minority (all-black, for example) but few shows ever cast all their models from Asian countries and even if it has, it felt disingenuous. That's where Kenzo, a Japanese label, started off and it should not be passed by in comment, the all Asian cast here is important and not just for show of diversity. A label, created and named after a Japanese designer, currently headed by two Asian designers cast only Asian models for their 80+ looks (there was womenswear, not shown here) for a collection was based on Asian culture. It was pretty brilliant and groundbreaking.

As for the clothes themselves, there were quirky triple ticket pocket suits, boxy and rooted in the 1980s, while anime-like graphics showed where Carol Lim and Humberto Leon's strengths lie: graphic sportswear. The finale offered fuzzy accented clothing, from socks to sweaters.

Kenzo, in a new timeslot, closed out nearly 3 weeks of fashion shows in Europe. It was the last show of Paris Fashion Week and the collection was expansive due its new co-ed format. The first half of the show offered menswear and the latter, womenswear. For the male portion of the show, the FW17 collection had bright colors and focused on utility. There were cool puffers in effervescent colors and elongated knits in gradient hues, like one would see in near the North and South Poles in the phenomena known as Aurora Borealias and Aurora Australis. One could even argue that the collection was one that tackled global warming. Whichever way someone interpreted the collection, the quirky clothes are sure to pique the interest of the hipster set. This is Kenzo under Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, after all.

LVMH's first foray into a capsule collection with fast fashion retailer H&M see's Kenzo reinterpreting their unique design aesthetic for the masses with animal-print heavy designs, with men's prices starting at $12.99US for a pair of socks to $399US for a denim puffer, all available Nov 3 at select H&M stores. The campaign and lookbook were shot by Oliver Hadlee Pearch, featuring Youngjun Koo, Tom Gaskin, Hao Liu, Oko Ebombo, Pierre Painchaud, and more.

Kenzo's latest collection harped on pack culture in the 80s with bands of models walking out together donning bright, intentionally garish clothes that one might see one's parents wearing in a photo album from that decade. The athletic-minded collection offered jumpsuits, technical fabric-ed sweaters and more, some with kitschy saying like "Brilliant".

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon's pattern-heavy FW16 collection for Kenzo felt very familiar; rope motifs, floral embellishment on coats, and the like. Their homage to Paris at the start of the show with a choir singing to "Rhythm Nation" was quite uplifting and likely overshadowed the lackadaisical collection that followed.

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon jettisoned an innumerable amount of sand and stone to showcase their SS16 menswear collection in Paris today. The resulting Kenzo collection was an ode to explorers, the men who discovered lost lands, who climbed mountains and braved rough waters to see majestic sights. There were flight suits with harnesses, coats with dangling strips of fabric, and a few 3D outfits that looked like spikes coming out of the models body. Aside from the too-literal and outre, the collection's winning combination of sport and wearability won out while tech-y fabrics made this collection, full of references to decades past, including wider silhouettes and looser fits, feel modern and of-the-now.

TOILETPAPER's fourth collaboration with Kenzo yielded a stunning take on the future, with Zhao Qinghe wearing the Paris-based label's graphic designs.

See the full collection here.

Graphic patterns and murky hues brought a sense of innocence and wonderment to Kenzo's FW15 collection, add a strong dose of hipster and the result was (and will be) a commercial hit. Plays on washing labels, UFOs, cowboys and the like were par for the course for Humberto Leon and Carol Lim's latest offerings for the Paris-based label.

Pierpaolo Ferrari snaps Kenzo's trippy Fall/Winter 2014 campaign featuring the Paris-based label's offerings, all set against an eye catching set and featuring Robbie McKinnon.

See the full collection here.

Kenzo's latest collection was bold with stripes, polka dots and denim, all set against a rain-y Parisian afternoon. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were inspired by French landmarks, which included the State of Liberty, which was a gift to the United States from France. The duo's attempt at creating something chic from something cliche as tourist attractions, including the Eiffel Tower and the famed French book Les Miserables, might have treaded a bit too far at times but at the end there were some very covetable items including paper-thin cashmeres and a plethora of excellent Spring coats.