Bill Gaytten's work at John Galliano has see-saw'd a bit since he took over from the namesake designer almost a decade ago. For SS19, Gaytten offered one of his stronger collections with hints of the label's past, like the iconic newspaper print Galliano made famous. The other looks included sharply tailored separates that had an aged appeal to them - like they were found at a vintage or military surplus shop and upcycled.

The precipitous fall of the John Galliano label is an example of what can happen to a label that's so deeply connected with its namesake designer fails to (re)identify its ethos under a new designer. For FW18, Bill Gaytten, who's been the designer at Galliano since the departure of the man himself, there were ornately decorated coats and East Asian influences. The former were quite stunning while the latter puzzling while cargo pants were even more head-scratching. There is no longer a defining look or style that sets Galliano apart from the rest instead it is indistinguishable from a the myriad of other mall stores.

Change has been afoot at John Galliano since Bill Gaytten took over. The aesthetics have become more approachable while "under the hood" changes also took place, like the new and elegant label (gone is the old newspaper label). For SS16, Gaytten proffered a very sporty collection that was more youthful, from tech-y fabrics like neoprene to metallic biker jackets to relaxed and fluid layers, as well as a splash of denim.

Bill Gaytten's designs for John Galliano's Fall/Winter 2014's collection was playful and youthful, with finger pointing applique seen on slender jackets. References include childhood video games and the American West. Metallic fabrics seen on oversized anoraks and raincoats, some seeming to reference the popularity of adult onesies were a great alternative to the sea of black coats and jackets during the wintry months.

See the full collection here.

See the full collection here.

As John Galliano, the man, continues his PR tour to show his remorse for the actions that led him to be ousted not only from Dior but also from his eponymous line, Bill Gaytten, who succeeded Galliano at John Galliano, the label, has all but eviscerated the mischievous, subversive and often times Victorian "gentleman" that Galliano pioneered. Gaytten has modernized and infused a heavy dose of youth into the line: it went from dark and brooding Russians running away from oppression to light and airy layers that create a sporty, youthful and urbane look. Some might find issue in what Gaytten has (successfully) transitioned John Gallino into but we think it best he stay true to who he thinks Galliano man is and should be.

It's been a busy day when it comes to news regarding John Galliano. The man himself, who no longer works for the fashion house named after him, is taking up a three week stint at New York-based designer Oscar de la Renta's atelier. And over in Paris, Bill Gaytten, the man who does design the collections for la maison du John Galliano, offered a comedic take on 1920s fashion. By comedic, we mean references to titans of silent film comedies like Charlie Chaplin and the Marx Brothers, two bizarrely common reference points this season. Gaytten championed a cleaner, albeit less theatrical, vision at John Galliano, and for a short bit at Dior, and as he gets his footing, the French designer continues to offer well executed sportswear for the LVM-owned house. As for the style notes, we enjoyed the romance and softness the fluid silk scarves and cravats gave to the collection.