Showing posts with label Haider Ackermann. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Haider Ackermann. Show all posts
Before Haider Ackermann ever created a men's collection, a special one for Pitti Uomo some years ago, he had already established an aesthetic. It continues and ties together his menswear and womenswear. That aesthetic, if you're new to Haider, is languid and sensual clothing. Fall/Winter collections tend to be strong for the Colombian-born designer since the rich fabrics like velvet pair so well with wintry clothes. For FW18, there were sublime coats, many with intricate and dazzlingly linings while loungey trousers cleanly cuffed added a a military feel while a strong Japanese and East Asian influence came through in the cherry blossom prints seen throughout and some of the tailored jackets.



RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann FW18

There's currently a heatwave hitting Paris. Everyone is sweating, making the decision for what to wear difficult but Haider Ackermann's very strong Spring/Summer 2018 collection offered a sophisticated and sexy way to wear softly tailored clothes with great aplomb. There were striped suits in black and white, while there were more colorful options like a one button lilac suit. Most of the looks offered open shirts or no shirts at all underneath the well cut suits. As for pants, they were loose and flowy, some sagging to reveal a layer underneath, possibly underwear, possibly a pair of shorts should the weather get that unbearable. In the end, Ackermann, who took over Raf Simons' old slot on the calendar, proved he is worthy of the esteemed time slot.



RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann SS18

Haider Ackermann finds himself in a new position for FW17, not only is he showing his eponymous collection during Paris Fashion Week but later this week, Friday to be exact, he'll be showing his first collection for Berluti. However, tonight it's all about the Haider Ackermann man. Who is he and what will he be wearing this coming season? If this short but sweet collection of rich and lush fabrics is any clue, it'll be patterned. Ackermann has a way with pattern and he utilizes this skill prodigiously every season and for FW17, they mostly stayed within the buffalo plaid and houndstooth family. Both are popular patterns in menswear but Ackermann offered them in new and unusual ways like a scoop neck houndstooth knit or buffalo plaid pants, topsy turvy indeed. In all, the collection hit all the marks of an Ackermann collection with nuances that added a bit of flare.



RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann FW17

Haider Ackermann's Spring/Summer 2017 collection was a euphoric in its unadulterated take on a night out, dancing and being happy to be around those you love. Though the concept was likely in the works before the tragic events in Orlando where 49 men and women died while doing just that - dancing and enjoying each other's company - one coudn't help but think of those victims. However, unlike that tragic event, Ackermann's show was a celebration with exuberant patterns, colors and lots of sexy layers to maybe attract someone of the opposite, or same, sex. Some shirts were made to resemble sweat-drenched shirts after a raucous night of uninhibited dancing.



RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann SS17

Haider Ackermann's opulent FW16 collection was rich in fabrics and textures. There were luxe brocades, leathers and velvets to complement the slim and fitted trousers while embellished jackets and coats added a tinge of rocker attitude, as did the bold hair styles, or lack thereof.



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RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann FW16

After some complaints of the low lighting at his earlier showings, Haider Ackermann showed his first runway show, out in day light, on the first day of Paris Fashion Week. Gender bending has been quite a popular theme this season and it was evident today at Ackermann's show. Low slung pants, metallic flats and trousers created chic looks that could be worn by both men and women. Meanwhile, leather vests and some cropped trenches rounded out the collection, which was decidedly lighter and less moody as previous outings.



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RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann SS16

Layers upon layers of velvet, wool, and cashmere made up Haider Ackermann's FW15 collection. Since showcasing his first men's collection during Pitti Uomo years ago, he has reinforced his men's showing with a mix of slouchy and elegant tailoring: take a pair of leather pants, creating puddles of soft, pliable calfskin down a model's slender legs paired with a cerulean velvet jacket and combat boots. Though the aesthetic may rarely change for the South American designer, the result is always the same: luxurious layers styled with the utmost level of nonchalance.



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RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann FW15

The rocker vibe at Haider Ackermann was palpable as the Colombian-born designer opted to double down on the silky, patterned layers he's known for. Enter light but lush robes draping the body in a cocoon of luxury while demure vests offered a bit of tailoring on top amongst the layers including summer scarves and flowy tops. For bottoms, there were roomy drop crotched pants, worn low on the hip or a pair of trim leather pants.

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RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann SS15

A cozy collection of oversized coats with elongated sleeves were de rigueur at Haider Ackermann's second showing during men's Paris Fashion Week. The Belgian designer impressed with his ability to tailor by creating clothes that offered more structure, rather than last season's heavily draped designs. He also took advantage of the rich colors seen during Autumn by showcasing washed out Autumnal colors, as well a handful of gorgeous patterned coats, like a mixed patterned white topcoat.

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RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann FW14