Showing posts with label FW19. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FW19. Show all posts
It was only three weeks ago that Clare Waight Keller made her debut with a full fledged menswear collection for Givenchy and now it's time for her men to don couture. This Fall/Winter 2019 collection offered ostentatious luxury with glistening brocades and ultra-luxe fabrications while still adhering to the sharp tailor that Keller has established herself to be. From a dramatic jacket-cum-cape to a floral patterned metallic coat to the final men's look in paisley, there was drama and flamboyance to be had. If one can afford these looks, why wouldn't one live life to the fullest?
RUNWAY: Givenchy Haute Couture FW19
Drama, vibrant colors and tailoring are hallmarks of Abasi Rosborough's latest collection that aimed to highlight the label's ethical-minded collections with the popular, limited-edition model that many fast fashion and high-end labels are wont to do while offering customization for a truly limited edition-vibe for these high drama clothes.
RUNWAY: Abasi Rosborough FW19
Boxy tailoring and a boyish thread ran through Nanushka's Fall/Winter 2018 collection, which combined a carefree, childlike attitude with oversized proportions, like children playing make-pretend.
RUNWAY: Nanushka FW19
Kozaburo looked to his heroes for his FW19 collection for inspiration. They were Bruce Lee and Michael Jackson, though with the more-recent release of a documentary on Jackson's illicit activities, now might not have been the best time to look to him for inspiration. Nevertheless, this FW19 collection melodiously combined the two inspirations with slim, masked men in ornate designs that mixed East and West.
RUNWAY: Kozaburo FW19
Tom Ford kicked off New York Fashion Week with a co-ed show but a few weeks before, he unveiled the lookbook for its men's collection. While the runway show highlighted the evening-wear portion of this collection, there was a lot of product to take in. The one that made the biggest impact were the assymetrical puffers with kangaroo pockets. Props to Ford for trying something new but no matter the finish, they were a bit of an assault on the eyes. Less so was the rest of the collection, especially the looks that melded a relaxed and tailor look, with the sort of lush finish one expects from Tom Ford.
RUNWAY: Tom Ford FW19
There is a homeyness to Bode's garments, part-fashion and part-homemade. It could be due to the designer's love of vintage fabrics and working them into modern styles while aiming to keep the fabric's moment-in-time integrity. There were cool abstract patterns made from these fabrics, as well as patchwork garments on top and on the bottom, mixed and matched to create a dimensionality. Because, after all, everyone has more than one facet - one's clothes should be a reflection of that.
RUNWAY: Bode FW19
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, a mouthful to say or type for sure, offered a cacophony of garments from oversized, wide-shouldered coats to skin tight metallic tights all under the signature Westwood drama that melds old-world references with modern day geo-political activism.
RUNWAY: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood FW19
With a new designer at the helm, Courreges aims to get on the menswear action. For FW19, the heritage label, which tends to focus on the futurism, offered a bit of the past to look forward via patched-denim looks, blue collar uniforms and more by presented them in a sterile, forward-thinking way.
RUNWAY: Courreges FW19
John Galliano's latest collection for Maison Margiela is strong on tailoring, evidenced by the first half of the collection but quickly brought to the forefront the heart and ethos of Margiela with deconstructed, thoughtful and provocative garments - whether constrictive or loose and unkempt or loud and colorful or just plain chaotic - all of which is quite relatable in everyone's life as those are common emotions everyone feels most days and to see it reflected in technical clothing is evidence that Galliano still has "it".
RUNWAY: Maison Margiela FW19
Long gone is Lucas Ossendrijver, he was unceremoniously dismissed from Lanvin, another by-product of the chaos at the stories Parisian label. But under its new corporate owner, Lanvin is on its way to a new start and new aesthetic. While this debut collection from Italian designer Bruno Sialelli was a bit too similar to Loewe, his most recent employer prior to the top spot at Lanvin, it was a clean slate, of sorts, for the label. There were painterly prints and a loungey vibe that Jonathan Anderson championed at Loewe but the coats and outerwear were were Sialelli shined strongest and likely where he should focus his efforts and less on what he had been doing at his old job.
RUNWAY: Lanvin FW19
There were a lot of earthy tones at Isabel Marant's Fall/Winter 2019 collection, with a strong focus on wanderers and utility, whether it came in the form of jumpsuits, heavy gauge knits or combat boots.
RUNWAY: Isabel Marant FW19
Anthon Vaccarello's latest collection for Saint Laurent felt incredibly strong - except for the menswear, which was a bit of an after thought and lacked the confidence and strength of his womenswear. Menswear has never been Vaccarello's strength and it was neither the namesake designer's as well so, in that regard, the Italian designer stayed true to the label.
RUNWAY: Saint Laurent FW19
Givenchy under Clare Waight Keller is a curious thing. She's a brilliant designer who offers up sophisticated and beautiful garments and is influential in ways that some designers are envious of - just look who gave her the top prize at the British Fashion Awards (a certain Duchess!). However, that being said, her menswear is lacking - not in fashion or ideas - but breadth. With just a handful or so of men's looks, how can a major fashion label like Givenchy excite nearly half of the population and a segment of the fashion industry that's growing at a faster rate than womenswear? The small selection of menswear that shows up during her women's collections and during Givenchy's haute couture collections are quite good. To be able to expand on those ideas to give men more of it would be a wise choice. The sharp cuts of the trousers, the delicate detailing on a coat or the drama of patent leather pants and a snakeskin print shirt are all things that could speak to a wide swathe of male fashion lovers - if it wasn't such an after thought that many forget that Givenchy still makes men's clothing now that Tisci is gone.
RUNWAY: Givenchy FW19
Balenciaga's latest collection started off quite normal, with loosely cut tailored garments and a few logoed tees. Then Demna Gvasalia opted to reference his first few collections with overly padded coats to create Frankenstein's monster-like proportions on top with coats dangling over the body while pops of color like hot pink and lime littered the collection on bags, slouchy trousers and more while Balenciaga's now-signature oversized (and overpriced) hoodies rounded out the expansive collection.
RUNWAY: Balenciaga FW19
London isn't the only fashion capital whose fashion denizens are environmentally conscious. Dyne's Christopher Bevans is one who uses fabrics that are leftover at mills, thereby reducing the carbon footprint. Even without that mind, the clothes are stunning with their high saturation, functionality and cuts - a trifecta that becomes all the more impressive that these clothes are good (or at least better) for the environment.
RUNWAY: Dyne FW19
Utility runs deep within rag & bone's DNA and that continues into its FW19 collection with an emphasis on the utility and functionality of blue collar uniforms. These clothes are intended to have purpose in one's life - to ease the struggles of its wearer, whether it be shielding it from the cold like warm flannel layers to offering more pockets to keep one's gadgets. While not groundbreaking, it will sell, which is helps keep the label afloat.
RUNWAY: rag & bone FW19
It's striking to think that Just Cavalli is one of the few diffusion lines still around - it hasn't been shuttered or folded into another line. It must signal that these more affordable wears continue to sell the bourgeoisie dream - if that dream includes animal prints, bright colors and flash. All three were present in this relatively tame collection that offered what younger shoppers want: denim, animal appliqueed clothing and branding.
RUNWAY: Just Cavalli FW19
British designer Craig Green returns for another capsule collection for Moncler's Genius line. This season, he focused on the warmth and packability of Moncler's puffers - done up here in extra voluminous proportions, which makes the packability of them even more impressive. Aesthetically, the rich colors and the dual - sometimes tri - colored outfits were stunning. Something functional and beautiful - a hard combo to get right.
RUNWAY: Moncler Genius Craig Green FW19
Moncler's 1952 label is one of the few on display during Milan Fashion Week that is in-house. By that, there was no special collaboration with another maison or designer such as Palm Angels or Pierpaolo Piccioli. Instead, for 1952's FW19 collection, a worldwide view was taken with bottoms offering map views, shiny metallic puffers for skiing and other winter sports - whether at Gstaad, Vail or climbing Everest. In essence, Moncler's statement is: come one, come all.
RUNWAY: Moncler 1952 FW19
Palm Angels's vision for its FW19 collaboration with Moncler played on the the latter's puffers with metallic finishes, graffiti prints and the former's popular tracksuits and branding.
RUNWAY: Moncler Genius Palm Angels FW19
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