Donna Karan built an empire with the idea of six easy pieces. Duckie Brown's highly edited FW16 collection took that notion and made six easy looks. The duo has been fighting rumors that the label is on the verge of closure and with a collection of six looks, this did not squash those rumors. However, if this is a turning point for the label, it's a strong position: make less filler clothes that are mediocre and make what you're best at.

In Europe, it was all about lace shirts. At Duckie Brown, it was all about sheer tops. The New York-based design duo proffered a short 19-look SS16 collection that played on proportion and gender, something that they've done in the past but has since gone mainstream, at least at the high fashion level. Here, they were very feminine looks, like a draped raglan top in highlighter-yellow, alongside contrasting elements that are sporty and athletic in nature, like large and fluid pants, puddling on the floor and secured via a silken belt.

A play on gender was front and center at Duckie Brown's Fall/Winter 2015 today, the first official day of New York Fashion Week. Blouses with deep V necks or kimono-style shirts in silken fabrics, some with zips, others just hanging open, draped the young models bodies while roomy trousers and a bit of military tailoring, like that of the finale coat with its oversized proportion and exaggerated lapel, continued the play on womenswear for men that was all the rage during the European shows a few weeks ago.

Steven Cox and Daniel Silver showed a very relaxed collection today, the first official day of New York Fashion Week. Plaids and stripes in muted tones littered the collection that subtly played on proportion. The highlight of any Duckie Brown show is the tailoring and here, the curved seam trouser of the opening look (on Charlie Westerberg) set the tone. Oftentimes baggy or elongated or worn low on the hip, it seemed like the duo was inspired by how teens dress nowadays with how they'll end up dressing when they're retired in Florida, complete with bucket hats! Duckie Brown's tongue-in-cheek take on dress is always humorous and this season is no different. It's just an added plus that the collection was also quite wearable without sacrificing the subversive undertones this label is best known for.

The big story from the Duckie Brown FW14 show today was the debut of the label's womenswear collection. Though that's not to say it overshadowed the menswear that Daniel Silver and Steven Cox showed, from a fluorescent pink bomber jacket to patent leather flats. The quirky duo played with proportion and fabrics for FW14, highlighting voluminous sleeves, as well as boxy and cropped peacoats. With little to no tailoring, the label has decidedly gone sporty, which is very much on trend though with the duo's excellent tailoring skills, a suit thrown in would have been nice.