Rei Kawakubo's Edwardian-inspired Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection was a cacophony of womenswear-inspired clothes on wigged models, some looking quite un-living. The strong feminine lean of this collection is due to a new opera whose costumes Kawakubo is designing and it makes up the bulk of this collection of billowing-sleeved blouses, mid-riff-bearing tops and other frilly details.

"Crazy suits", the title of this collection, is right. Rei Kawakubo's latest collection took on tailoring - a topic that's been all over the place this season, whether it's heritage labels such as Corneliani trying to navigate a world where hoodies are more favored than suits in the business world or Raf Simons who has said enough with the sportswear. Here, Kawakubo takes a different approach for her Comme des Garcons Homme Plus collection: she plays with the suit to make them youthful and fun, taking the seriousness of what they mean away and imbuing them with frivolity via bold colors, snazzy patterns and out-there shapes.

Rei Kawakubo's main runway line, Comme des Garcons Homme Plus, shown here, is often the most experimental, whether that be bulbous clothing or glitter parties. For FW18, there was a boyish naivete to it, with the dinosaur heads, cartoon prints, and rakish asymmetry of the collection. Interestingly, there is a Boy line within the Comme des Garcons umbrella but in comparison to this particular collection, that line is much more mature looking than this is and that could be the experimental concept upon which the Japanese designer envisioned her man this coming season.

An air of uncertainty has befallen Paris Fashion Week and on the first day after the historic "Brexit" vote, most of Europe, and the world, is in shock. Then comes Rei Kawakubo's SS17 collection for her runway line Comme des Garcons Homme Plus centered on the tale "The Emperor's New Clothes". The collection interpreted the story quite literally with plenty of bared skin and transparent layers. The idea of nakedness was in full force and the result, while jarring if worn as-is on the streets, on the runway gave the collection a poetic and beautiful aura about it. Mix that in with the possibility of the talks that Scotland and a re-united Ireland breaking apart the United Kingdom and this show took on a whole new meaning.

Rei Kawakubo is one of the few designers anywhere whose cerebral collections are continually breathtaking or though provoking, or both. Her FW15 collection for Comme des Garcons Homme Plus, the most expensive label within the CdG house, was the latter. She took suits and twisted them, making them quirky like jackets that weren't straight and buttoned up at an angle or paired austere, military outfits with bold graffiti print jacket that barely buttoned closed This eclectic collection ultimately melded traditional tailoring with Kawakubo's signature quirkiness, her own personal take on how men dress today.

Comme des Garcons' Rei Kawakubo looked to early-20th Century England for inspiration for her army of pacifists. Beautifully cut tailored pieces anchored the collection's more ostentatious elements, such as the tusk-like shoes. Hexagonal and diamond cut outs seen on cape sand tees reinforced the military theme while short suits gave the collection a sense of naïveté. It was a beautiful scene to behold; the different, disparate elements coming together to create one cohesive story, complete with a message for today's man: give peace a chance.

Rei Kawakubo sets the drumbeat she wants to follow. It was a revelation when she showed her SS14 womens collection because she did not have anything new to offer so she sent down the runway a hogwash of creative and very unwearable fashion. For her FW14 collection for Comme des Garcons, it wasn't that extreme but the collection was odd with swamp monster-ish hair and makeup. Other than that, it was quite tame since the collection focused almost solely on tailoring. Cut away circles and pockets were seen on flowy suits, while a few had zippered sides that revealed nothing but the layer underneath. The finale's array of more flamboyant tailoring showed glistening fabrics, polka dots, and just a bit of tartan.

Rei Kawakubo showed a subversive and punk inspired collection for Comme des Garcons SS14. Ruched leather pants paired with an elongated shirt sleeves under a slim fitted jacket opened the show that then merged gothic romanticism, the idea of gallant knights in leather jerkins or vests, with punk aesthetic that included slicked hair and heavy eye make up to create a collection that was different but on trend, a hard feat to accomplish . The conceptual Japanese designer lightened the mood with a series of colorful florals, graffiti- and anime-inspired prints while the finale pitted bandanas with crisp shirts and a varying array of bottoms.

Rei Kawabuko offered a delicious and tantalizing take on texture and retro fashion for Comme des Garcons' Fall/Winter 2013. Short suits were still preferred while moppy haired models with bunny ears wore baggy pants and capris, in candy colors. We especially loved a yellow baroque greatcoat that beckoned to be photographed by all the street style photographers.

See the full collection here.