London is upon us and Hussein Chalayan's latest men's collection was clean and crisp with light colors and simple-yet-effective patterns. A bit off were the miniature boom boxes and some of the pant accessories (ski poles, anyone?).

Chalayan's latest collection offered structural designs in hues of grey and black, with mixed media fabrics, leathers with tweeds and so on. Pairing nearly every look with galoshes brought the idea of London home quite clearly while pops of color from lime to salmon brought the mostly somber collection some fire, as did the bright pink lipstick some of the models sported.

Many designers and people in the arts look for direction on their next project, it seemed that Hussein Chalayan was looking for that same direction too and found it via cartography, the study of maps. The lines seen on the darkly hued clothes reminded those of beautifully drawn maps of Europe while exaggerated cuts drew on the same idea.

Neutral tones and intriguing tailoring made for an interesting FW18 collection from Chalayan. There were chunky combat boots paired with trim cigarette pants while what little color or pattern were seen, gold and violet here, pinstripe there, broke up the mostly monochromatic looks.

Chalayan's voluminous silhouettes at his Spring/Summer 2018 collection brought to mind the Middle East while the sleeves that buttoned open or close added a wit to the collection.

Chalayan's latest collection  offered loose tailored pieces rooted in classic sartorial heritage. There was the requisite white shirt and tie, worn under oversized knits, a collarless overcoat and a voluminous blouson hoodie.

Chalayan's playful Spring/Summer 2016 collection proffered kitschy graphics from a geometric take on business charts to oversized pocket protectors and cartoonish prints. Meanwhile, tailoring was relaxed and comfortable and trended towards all-black, which offset the more youthful elements of the collection.

Graphic monochromatic prints stood out at Chalayan's sporty-cum-tailored FW15 collection: take the camo-like blousons and austere jackets with hidden panel closures or tiered pant-shorts combo.