Showing posts with label Ben Fuller. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ben Fuller. Show all posts
There is something so refined and elegant about Clare Waight Keller's designs for Givenchy. Even when she does hard-edged designs like a cobalt biker's vest, the finish softens the garment while the styling elevates the blue collar item to something far more elegant. When she does evening, with shimmering beading, from another designer, it might look disco and gaudy but it was light and, in a way, ethereal like the wearer is a holy ball of light.



RUNWAY: Givenchy SS19

The intricate and elegant knitwork from Missoni is juxtaposed with ruggedness for SS19, specifically dirt bikes. Does madras go with dirt biking? Not quite but that won't stop these statuesque models from donning sheer layers over their Missoni knits to go for a ride while jolts of colors like a lemon leather pant jazzed up for the subtle pattern play.



RUNWAY: Missoni SS19

Japanese label Facetasm's eccentric SS19 collection saw a jumble of fringe, tromp-o'leil layers, and free spirited style that coincides with the label's ethos.



RUNWAY: Facetasm SS19

Astrid Andersen, known for her hypermasculine designs and a penchant for basketball references, eschewed a runway show and the 90s influence and went retro and a bit surreal. The SS19 collection had space age-inspired, circa 1970, designs in metallic fabrics like a faux-croc wide pant while jauntily striped outfits contrasted the Mars-like set, complete with crocodile because, why not? There was also multiple iterations of the tracksuit, a garment that many a label are aiming to perfect.



RUNWAY: Astrid Andersen SS19

British designer Paria Farzaneh highlights her heritage in her SS19 collection, showing off beautifully intricate patterns that hark back to his Iranian lineage while cool and modern cuts pervaded over the collection, offering, in a sense, a dichotomy between new and old.



RUNWAY: Paria Farzaneh SS19

There was a simplicity to Casely-Hayford's SS18 collection that evoked a sense of calm assurance in the father and son designing duo's work. A strong focus on tailoring turned into an exercise in proportion and fit with top stitching classic patterns offered a small but special touch to the clothes.



RUNWAY: Casely-Hayford SS18

After showing his FW17 collection in Florence during Pitti Uomo, Tim Coppens went back to his base with technical fabrics and a strong athletic mindset. There were also plenty of denim options from bleach stained jeans to jackets, a preview of his capsule collection with Wrangler.



RUNWAY: Tim Coppens SS18

Public School's latest offerings advanced the design duo's "uniform". This season, their sharply tailored clothes, with modern and technical fabrics, were contrasted with a line-up presentation, featuring models from all walks of life, including Nick Wooster, all a stone throw's away from donning a very un-chic orange jumpsuit. In the end, the collection did not stray too far from the aesthetic they've proffered from their start. Instead, this collection only reinforced their clear vision of menswear, including a reference to androgyny, which is one of the biggest trends in the fashion industry right now.



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RUNWAY: Public School SS16

A desert was the starting point for Maison Kitsune's Spring/Summer 2016 collection and what would one wear to the desert? Safari jackets, sandals, and plenty of lightweight layers. The surrealist lookbook that Maison Kitsune coincided with their hip and quirky vibes while the relaxed silhouettes and emphasis on sportswear provide plenty for retailers and buyers to order.



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RUNWAY: Maison Kitsune SS16

The lush offerings of luxury label Duchamp sought to court the attention of men with the highest of taste. There were slim cut suits in a shiny houndstooth pattern, luxe loafers, and cool sportswear to entice those well-heeled denizens of Kensington and Knightsbridge.



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RUNWAY: Duchamp SS16

Americana has never looked so off-kilter or as chic as it does in Scott Sternberg's FW15 collection for Band of Outsiders, a name that's in strict conflict of its status as the most desired label for the hippest of men and women. For FW15, there were plays on American hardware logos, including a cheeky take on tire manufacturer Goodyear's name as Bad Year. In all, the collect continues its ascent as one of the go-to label for ironic, well made clothes.



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RUNWAY: Band of Outsiders FW15

Brain & Beast's Fall/Winter 2014 collection was an ode to Spanish culture. The lively collection offered soft and comfortable layers, eschewing any bulky outerwear and opting instead for ultra wide shorts and cropped pants paired with striped or graphic knits.

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RUNWAY: Brain & Beast FW14

Factotum's quiet menswear collection for FW14 showed the label's ability to meld tailoring with sport to great affect. Take for example a look on Sen Mitsuji: camel topcoat paired with a heart patterned knit and a covetable pair of sweatpants. The plethora of offerings from this Japanese label puts it at another level compared to others at Tokyo Fashion Week, who tend to be too austere and niche to cater to a wider audience.

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RUNWAY: Factotum FW14