Showing for the first time at the Grand Palais in Paris, Alexandre Mattiussi showed a succinct collection of sexy and moody clothes in monochromatic looks of black and brown with flashes of red to bring home the sexy vibe. Not that it needed to with open shirts or no shirts at all underneath the roomy overcoats shown here. In all, it was a sophisticated collection of chic basics with a bit of sex appeal and AMI's distinct Parisienne flair.

In a particularly strong outing, Ami's Alexandre Mattiussi offered sophisticated and polished looks, everything from the beautiful coats, like a herringbone jacket and a camel toggle coat for example, down to the cropped and loosely tailored trousers. It felt like a grown up collection, even though many of the garments played on proportion with many a sleeve extending well past the hand. Among the sophisticated tailoring, there was an endearing boyishness about the collection that complemented the undoubtedly Parisian inspiration, as is always the case at Ami.

As the models waded through a field of wheat in the middle of Paris for Ami's Spring/Summer 2019 show, one was left wondering, "What would the Parisian Carrie Bradshaw think of such a scene?" In reality, Alexandre Mattiussi thought about getting away from the hectic life of Paris and from the warp speed of fashion. Though it's not just designers feeling the crunch, many in the general public are feeling the weight of today's social media driven world of endless content and pressure to produce said content. This translated into a calm and tranquil collection, one best paralleled to a perfectly still lake: not making any waves but pristine in its stillness.

Jackson Hale, Emin Akyildiz and Etienne de Testa are snapped by Oliver Hadlee Pearch for Ami's Spring/Summer 2018 campaign, shot on location on the streets of Paris.

Ami took an often neglected part of Paris and used the hiding-in-plain-sight stage of Parisian rooftops as the backdrop of his equally hiding-in-plain-sight collection. The clothes didn't stand out too much when compared to the high gloss world of high fashion. The designer prefers a demure aesthetic of supple clothes with elegant and sometimes innovative details, belying the seemingly simple clothes.

Ami's latest collection offered up laid back clothes for the man who doesn't feel the need to think too much about what he wears because everything he owns is great. There were floral printed shirts, all-denim looks, and some baggy tailored pieces that evoked a nonchalance attitude to dressing. As for the extra-long belts, a trend that's been popping up, gave each look a sexual and phallic appearance and ultimately looked quite cumbersome to wear in real life. It's also a look that mass-retailer Abercrombie & Fitch did a decade or so ago. Everything old is new again, we suppose.

The bright palette on Ami's FW17 collection was a much needed jolt of energy especially considering the sea of black, blue and grey clothes that are typically seen for fall and winter collections. As for the clothes themselves, they were classically cut. After years of slim and skinny silhouettes and fashion's new obsession with oversized, Ami offered something radical: regular fits. Sure, the jeans were slightly long and folded to show bare ankles but for the most part, the clothes fit could easily be categorized as the Goldilocks option: not too hot (or big) and not too cold (or skinny), just right.

AMI's latest collection played on unisex dressing with a flowy and laid back collection that seemed comfortable and wearable for either sex. The clothes were relaxed and nonchalantly chic, just like the Frenchman who designed it.

AMI's Fall/Winter 2016 collection was a fight between light and dark, clearly affected by the terrorist attacks in Paris, the label teetered between celebrating life and being mournful for those lost. The collection's dark palette of greys and blacks were juxtaposed with exuberant sequins and lightness. The result was a bit of a mishmash but not without some standouts like shearling coats, the roomy trousers the designer is known for and the quintessential camel coat.

The 90s are making a comeback, at least at Ami's Spring/Summer 2016 runway show. Sweatpants and sweatshirts came in bright colors and slouchy fits and were paired with tailored designs to create a Silicon Valley-friendly collection that had a nonchalant vibe and endless options for the tech geniuses who don't want to feel and look like they're dressing up in their father's suits.

For his latest collection, Alexandre Mattiussi showcased a slouchy collection that was rooted in military themes, from army-green pants, in technical fabrics, to aviator jackets, complete with a shearling collar. The surprising elements came in the form of acid wash jeans and then it all clicked: the 80s, a decade where more was more. As for tailoring, it was all over the place with wide pants, puddling on the floor, to cropped skinny trousers that could fit any of the female models that walked the show or any guy with a 26 inch waist.

Youth and love are two words often used together; it's romanticized in movies, TV shows and a plethora of novels. It was also the focus of Ami's Spring/Summer 2015 collection. These aren't the teens one might have seen in a production of West Side Story, instead they were the kind who sifted through fashion magazines, style blogs and the like to find inspiration for their own clothes, which turns out to be a mixture of adult-oriented and streetwear. On the runway, this translated to easy layers: nonchalant tailoring and styling, rolled up sleeves and backward caps. It was enviably cool, also great was the knit worn by a female model that simply said "Premier Baiser", or first kiss, which was also the name of a TV show in France in the early 1990s. Oh, isn't young love grand?

Much like Alessandro Sartori for Berluti, Ami's Alexandre Mattiussi staged his first ever runway show and the runway was covered in "snow". Using that as a starting point, Mattiussi captured a chic and sporty man through his winter wardrobe, full of lush fabrics, great tailoring and just a bit of pattern to change things up. A peak lapel camel coat was marvelous while multi-ply cashmere was the epitome of understated luxury. Seeing Mattiussi's designs on a runway, seeing how they move and drape on a moving body is a sight and we're glad he decided on runway rather than a static presentation.

See the full collection here.