RUNWAY: Ann Demeulemeester FW18

There was a disheveled regal and romantic vibe coming from Ann Deumeulemeester's latest collection. Open shirts added a sexual energy while elongated proportions on a military jacket could be worn two ways: buttoned up for a more formal look or unbuttoned to look rakish and unconcerned. Meanwhile, fur showed up in multiple iterations from the lining of a long vest to a full layer of puffy and high pile fur. The label's designer, Sebastian Meunier, seems more confident than ever in this collection and it shows with a strong outing, after a few years of playing with the codes of the house since taking over from the namesake designer.