RUNWAY: Craig Green FW17

"Sink or swim?" seems to be a question on Craig Green's mind. The designer, who is not without a relatively long list of awards, is keenly aware of the UK's climate (see the bucket hats) but the question goes beyond that. His label, and that of every other label, survives by being able to sell, at a profit, the clothing that continually earns him critical praise. So here, for FW17, he seems to be answering that call with a more commercial friendly collection, with dazzlingly sumptuous coats, secured with rope-like belts, while militaristic tailoring makes for boxy and masculine proportions. The interpretation of the last few looks, complete with packable accessories, could be anyone's guess but they looked like lifevests, strewn around the body, referencing not only his own sink-or-swim situation but also that of the influx of hungry and homeless refugees fleeing into Europe, often to hostility and fear.