RUNWAY: Gosha Rubchinskiy SS17Pitti Uomo's semi-annual event always features a guest designer and for SS17, the Italian fashion expo asked Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy. Rubchinskiy's take on fashion is deeply rooted in his own childhood during the late 80s and 90s Russia, putting his own spin on the roomy, oversized fashions that ruled the wardrobe of the kids of that time. Therefore, his collections have been undoubtedly sporty and athletic-leaning. However, he decided to take on tailoring for this special occasion. The result was boxy and wide but combined with the youthful faces of the models who strode down the runway, the suits looked fresh, if not a bit costume-y since the boys, and boys they were, looked like they were playing dress up in their father's old suits for a big date.
Elsewhere, Rubchinskiy shines best when he takes on sportswear and adds his own take on branding to it. The collection was strongest when there was a healthy dose of athletic-minded references. In the end, the collection reinforced the Russian designer's aesthetic but ever so slightly showed that he's no one-trick pony.