RUNWAY: Lanvin FW11

Lucas Ossendrijver presented a collection that couldn't decide its own identity. Was it meant to be about classic pieces or about futuristic fabrics disguised as classic suits and outerwear? In the end, it was a bit of both, with the opening look showing a military inspired overcoat with raw edges and a tipped hat, and soft leather loafers. Throughout the collection, there were nuances that made the clothes interesting, like magnetic closures, exposed zippers, and a touch of leather, suede and satin. To counterbalance the large amount of details, Ossendrijver (with the help of Creative Director Alber Elbaz) kept a reserved hand on the overall look of the clothes, leaving coats and suits free of embellishment. Also lacking identity this season was the fit on the trousers, there was a wide selection from skinny cigarette pants to relaxed suit pants to wide and flowing pants to skin tight satin trousers seen at the end of the show.

In a collection so rife with identity crises, they all came together harmoniously.