RUNWAY: Maison Margiela FW15

John Galliano returns to the fashion calendar after a tumultuous few years and a tepid reaction to his first couture (read: Artisinal) collection for Maison Margiela. Today, he showed his first men's collection since being ousted from his namesake label. There were sharply tailored military coats, tie-dye vests, and shiny leather jackets. The strongest looks included a patchwork peacoat that looked like its facade was fingerpainted (also see the model's fingers) and its edges left unfinished, beautiful in its own disheveled and destroyed way. However, the collection felt a little unfocused: floral here, leather there, and military somewhere else. That being said, Galliano and the atelier may still be getting its bearings. If the subtle name change (or omission) is any indication, the transition of Maison Margiela will be equally as subtle and deliberate, shifting focus from the past and the heritage to what the new creative director envisions the future of Margiela will look like.