This is the first full men's collection since Ann Demeulemeester announced her retirement; last season, men's and women's were combined into one coherent show during women's fashion week. Now the team that Ms. Demeulemeester led has taken the reins and the result was light. The dark and moody clothes, rooted in Edwardian tailoring, was still present but there was an unmistakable lightness to the collection. The lighter and brighter show space also helped but the silhouettes were more fluid as well, a bit more transparent, as if the atelier was peeling back the armor that the namesake designer had put up. Crinkled material added an idea of relaxation and a nonchalance that was missing before. Meanwhile the embroidered jackets and shoes were spectacular. The future is bright, according to this label.